I make ours without the tea tree, the alcohol kills enough germs for my comfort level.
Tea tree oil has a strong eucalyptus scent that will overpower any other fragrance.
How To Polish Marble Floor? All You Need To Know! by wipeout.ie
Marble is highly porous; stains are caused when liquid seeps into the stone and get trapped. Then using a clean cloth, apply the mixture to your surface in a thin layer. Lapicur should be reapplied every 1-2 years, depending on how much traffic your marble surface receives.
Cultured marble is manufactured with a protective coating that makes it much less prone to scratches and damage. Cultured marble is less delicate but still requires careful cleaning to avoid deep scratches or damage.
There are three basic methods you can use to do this all listed below. Common spillages like juice, wine, sauces, cooking oils and coffee will all stain your marble surface. Move in progressively smaller circles as the surface dries. Tape off any areas around the marble surface that are not to be sealed – wood trim, chrome or stainless steel.
DIY Granite Cleaner by cleanmama.net
You also have to be very careful to use only ingredients that are safe to use on them.
Give this recipe a try – you’ll love how quick it is to mix up and how easy it is to use. I like to use a barely damp microfiber cloth with the cleaner but it will work with a dry microfiber cloth as well. Clorox user, but am trying to switch over to more natural cleaners. Thursday’s task is to wash all the hard surface floors in your home including wood, tile and laminate. Jumpstart your cleaning routine and organize your house, one room at a time.
Most countertop manufacturers and installers recommend just soap and water. If you want to leave out the rubbing alcohol you can, just up the castile soap to 1/2 teaspoon. I love microfiber cloths and cotton dish cloths for my granite. I wouldn’t use lemon juice, but 1/4 teaspoon in 2 cups of water is a-okay. Bonner people use 1/4 c in a quart bottle with the rest filled with water. I like this ratio because it isn’t too soapy and can just be wiped clean without rinsing.
I have corian countertops, would this be a good cleaner to use on that as well? I just want to find something that gets it clean but won’t ruin the surface. I would love to find something that is natural to seal them instead.
So, you spray the concoction (for the granite counter tops) on and then wipe it off with the microfiber cloth and that’s it or is the microfiber wet or what? I have granite kitchen counters and need a cleaner to disinfect after cutting up chicken, etc. Use this per the directions and your granite will be clean and shiny. This recipe in your book says it makes 8oz but it calls for two cups of water which equal 16oz. I like to start this task in the morning when beds are vacant to assure that everyone has clean sheets to hop in to at bedtime. I keep my bar mop towels rolled like this on the kitchen counter and use them in lieu of paper towels.
Types Of Cleaners That Damage Marble Sealer by doityourself.com
Most are too acidic and will etch the surface, which means it will look cloudy to varying degrees.
Don’t scour marble with lemon and salt, which is a popular green cleaning technique.
Once this happens, all you can do to restore the shine is have the surface professionally refinished or replaced. Never use water and vinegar on marble although its an excellent cleaner for other uses. The lemon will etch the marble, and the salt will scratch it.
If you want to use any commercial cleaner, the best advice it to purchase one from a store that sells specialty cleaning products or where you purchased the marble.
Marble’S Worst Enemies A Guide To Eco Friendly Cleaning by blog.kreoo.com
This can enhance the natural beauty of the stone, giving it character and a gorgeous earthy feel. When it comes to cleaning your marble countertops or furniture, there are thousands of products on the market. Many people believe these traditional cleaners are their only options; that “powerful” is synonymous with “harsh”. However, these surfactants pollute the groundwater, and are overly aggressive with the delicate marble. As the wet detergent dries, the oil molecules with it will stick with it; easily swept away. Lemon juice, vinegar, tomato juice and acidic detergents are bitter enemies of marble!
If one of these acidic substances touches your marble, dry immediately and wash the area with soap and baking soda or washing soda and soap. Take a damp sponge, cake with baking soda and rub the stained area a second time. If these tips don’t completely remove the discoloration, it may be time to call in a professional.
But over time, any natural stone can experience negative reactions if it’s exposed to the wrong things. The problem is many conventional products pollute our homes and environments and can be damaging to natural surfaces. Beware of the potential for damage hiding in common household items!
Many are rich in surfactants; elements that bind to the spot and remove it through osmosis.
The safest bet is always an eco-friendly, natural cleanser. The detergent powder binds with the oil molecules in the marble. If left untreated the acids will dissolve the surface of the stone, leaving it stained or rough. Cover the stain, moisten with water to create a creamy consistency and apply over the entire area.
Wet the marble to remove excess chalk, wash with soap and rinse thoroughly. Sometimes though, contrast is what makes beautiful pieces really stand out. Each one incorporates marble without doing the whole “floor to ceiling” thing. The intangible, indefinable something that makes the difference between “pretty” and “iconic”.
Danger: Using Natural Cleaning Products Can Ruin Granite Worktop Or Marble Floor The Tile Stone by tileandstoneblog.co.uk
Vinegar, lemon juice and many other household chemicals are frequently presented as wonder cleaners. The danger is that substances like vinegar etc are pretty potent acids and they will quickly attack any acid-sensitive material. I was able to advise what to do remove the stains, but then he noticed some dull patches. On closer inspection, the entire floor was dull, matt and with a yellow hue to its surface. The lesson here is to make sure you know and understand the type of cleaner you are using and also, know your stone. There are some types of granites that do contain a tiny amount of calcium in the matrix (the fine grained material around the bigger crystals).
So be warned and be careful, if you are in any doubt at all then find an off-cut or an inconspicuous area and test any cleaner for such reactions before you proceed. And a stronger alkaline one for occasiona deep claning or cuting through grease. Often dull tiles come about due to lack of rinsing with detergents and over time it builds up a patina and dulls the surface, a good deep clean with a high alkaline cleaner would normally resolve this. There is strong possibility that your ‘black granite’ is actually basalt or some other similar stone. There is no problem with this, the stone industry is allowed to describe such material as granite as it meets many of the criteria for that stone type. If any of the black colour has turned greyish, that is another indication of etching.
If this is the case, then an alkaline cleaner will not help (apart from cleaning it well).
See if this makes a difference, if it does, then adjust your cleaning regime so that you include a rinse and buff. If it is a black ‘basalt’ it can be very difficult to fix, polishing the white marks out is not easy as the acid (in the cillit bang) tends to go deep and bleach the colour out.
Unfortunately, the bottoms of the bottles were not dry and has left a crescent mark on it, which is only visible when wet.
I suspect it has burned away the protective chemical film that was originally put on. However once you have removed the stains, you may find that when dry the marble has now lost its shine, and with it, any depth of colour. For a start much of the black ‘marble’ used in this way is actually more like a very dense limestone, not that that matters at all – it is a natural stone that is black and ‘just about’ hard enough to take a mechanical polish. Etching, and ‘roughing up’ the surface in this way (although it may not feel rough to the touch) also ‘kills’ the colour of polished marble, this is normally re instated after polishing it again. Your cream polish may have been one of these, and it may not have worked, this may be because your black marble may not react all that well to this type of system. Bear in mind crystallizers are not universally popular in our industry as they can, over time damage the surface – they are a quick fix in this instance and may help your friend but should not be used over and over again. If is is only a small bar, a set of ‘hand diamond pads’ can be bought quite inexpensively now, they come colour coded for the different grades (start course and work up to fine) the process is just ‘sand’ the counter top keeping the pad wet by dipping it in clean water every so often, then move up to next pad etc. I would then look to seal the floor with an impregnating sealer so that it is less absorbent and will stain less in the future. Can you ‘feel’ the marks or do they seem to be in or under the surface? Occasionally there can be iron bearing minerals in this type of stone and under the right conditions they can react with water and the air, and oxidize, to form basically, a type of rust.
Alot of the slates have dull and pale patches where the surface has split and broken off. The natural finish of freshly split and exposed slate, where flakes have come off to reveal a fresh bit of surface, will be different to the long-exposed surface. It has also most likely been exposed to all manor of cleaners and treatments, natural and synthetic (including oils and waxes) i its lifetime. There is not much you can do really as trying to clean it won’t help – it is not yet dirty, the rest of the floor is, relatively speaking of course.
There is a chance that using an enhancing sealer may darken those spots and bring them into a closer shade but you would have to try to just do the spots and it will still not match 100%, and of course it wont alter the dullness. Etching occurs when a corrosive substance actually burns/damages the surface of the ceramic/glaze. More likely you have done a partial job of stripping and the colour differences you are seeing are actually residual deposits of the now damaged sealer/coating. If not then sure a poultice can work – never used cement and water to make one though – that does not sound like a great idea to me to be honest – as you are making a wet cement that could stick, and stain in itself. Regarding the ‘etch marks’ they certainly sound like etch marks from what you say. Stone etches like this when there is something in its make-up that is sensitive to acids, usually some form of calcium in the fine matrix that surrounds the larger crystals of the various minerals that make up the stone.
A very common cause is wine glasses being left on the counter with drips of wine accumulating at the base – hence the rings. With all over calcium based stones like marble for example, rectifying the problem usually involves repolishing the surface – so, grinding away the now rougher part and then sanding it smoother again to get that ultra polished surface back – with it comes back the colour and shine.
It is much harder though for granites as you only want to repolish the dulled part and the undamaged surrounding crystals make accessing the finer damaged matrix harder. So you may have to get a stone professional in to re surface the stone and that would really require him/her doing most if not all of the surface to get a good finish. Unlike marble, which can sometimes be re-surfaced with the right acidic polishing products, granite tends to be much harder to fix. Such chemicals can be extremely damaging to certain materials (and people). It depends on a few things, the first one to check out is has your granite had any kind of coating or surface treatment? If you do have this issue then you would have to seek the advice of the granite installer or a professional stone restoration company to enquire about work top resurfaced. Try using a white nylon scouring pad with some water, see if it makes any difference.
Only recently, a very distraught person came to me with a stained marble floor.
These are etch-marks, caused by the action of an acid (orange juice, red wine etc).
Unless you are an expert, never, use any form of acid on an acid-sensitive stone. With the explosion of imported stone from all over the world we are now seeing some stones that do not conform to the norm. We have seen a lot of so-called black granite that can have quite a violent reaction to even mild acidic compounds and unlike polished marble, it is not so easy to re-polish the etch out again. However it will do some thing to the grout, over time it will etch some of the cement, whether it is strong enough to do real damage is debateable but really the best advice is to use a neutral cleaner for reguloar or routine maintenance.
The problem is that the black crystals are probably no damaged by acid, but the finer matrix that is present between them may contain a high degree of calcium and it is this that has reacted with the acid that was undoubtedly present in the limescale remover. As far as the shine goes, some stone has been physically removed by the etching process, so to correct it properly the entire slab would need professionally refinishing, this can be done but it is going to involve a pro with the right tools and several grades of diamond pads – so is a time consuming and costly process. In fact, many geologists will tell you that there is no such thing as a true black granite, what you have is an igneous stone, formed in the same way and with very similar characteristics but not technically granite. The main thing to be careful of is acidic etching, quite a lot of the so called black granites are susceptible to acid etching, in fact, this may be the reason that your stone has gone dull in the first place. It is also possible that a build up of alkaline detergent could also create this dull effect, but by leaving a dull patina on top rahter than actually dulling ths stone. However, my gut feeling is for the former, based on what you have said.
I have to say that with basalt, it is not always 100% possible, although it can help and improve the look. However it could also be that the is some kind of residue on the stone. It may well appear to shine when buffed – but all you will be doing is making the floor glisten with wet oil. If the stone has not been sealed then it might be possible to use an enhancing sealer to darken the patches down again. I had put a couple of bottles of acid on it, used for cleaning expresso machines.
When you run your finger over the wet surface, you know when you have reached it as it feels different; it also seems to ‘attract’ water. I think it is less likely to be the acid damaging the coating (there was probably an impregnating sealer applied) than the granite itself – some granites have a small amount of calcium-type mineral within the fine matrix that surrounds the crystals, some are actually not even granite, but some other igneous rock like basalt. It might be that the surface can be locally re polished – suggest you contact your supplier – they are often equipped these days to effect small repairs. Wine has an acidic nature, and acids will etch (eat into ) the surface of a marble. If the stone is unpolished then the staining would happen sooner, but the etching would be less noticeable.
So, you may have what appear to be deep stains, you may well be able to remove these with a deep cleaner and or a poultice. This can be repaired, but it will need re-polishing and this may be something that would best be accomplished by a professional. The problem is that compared to some marbles it is relatively soft. The dulling that your friend is experiencing though is down to acid etching – the alcohol and acidic fruit-juices all eat away at the finer calcium particles and have the same effect on the fine, polished surface of marble as sand blasting does on concrete. However, one other common issue with black marbles (and green) is that when it is etched, sometimes the colour can be bleached out semi permanently. The marble polish the other guy brought over may be just a simple cream polish (like a wax polish for a car) its only function to add a wax coating which might bring a temporary artificial shine. The term ‘polish’ can be misleading, it can mean adding wax as above, but most of the time when we talk about polishing we are talking about the mechanical (and sometimes chemical) alteration of the stone – grinding it flat and smooth with progressively finer abrasives – so like sanding timber with finer and finer sand paper until the desired fineness is achieved. If your polish was just a wax polish, then it may be worth trying a crystallizing polish. At some point, and that time may already have been reached, your friend will have to have the surface of his marble re-ground using proper abrasives, like diamonds. This is less effective in my experience on black marbles and he may not be able to get all of the colour restored, but he should be able to get rid of the etch marks and bring back a uniform even shine.
It depends on what acidic compounds are reacting with what minerals in the stone. This can be deep in the stone and it can be impossible to remove.
You might find that you can get the majority of the stain off and that the quartz itself being resin based, has not actually stained. We have original slate flagstones (1869) in the hallway of our house. These patches are very porous and despite using the appropriate cleaning and sealing products, still remain light in colour and dull. I read somewhere that using a car cutting compound was the only way to restore the floor to a single colour. Try reapplying the stripper another 1 or two times, it can be simply that it takes several attempts to break through the total thickness of a coating like this, and the first one just takes the top off, making it appear dull and whitish for example. This repolishing can be done mechanically and or chemically depending on the situation.
However one thing you might try is this, does the etch mark darken to the point that it becomes invisible when it is wet? Typically you will need to either try to mask it with an enhancing sealer (one that makes the granite have a permanent wet look) or all a stone professional to see if they can re grind/re polish it mechanically.
Does the colour temporarily return when the granite is wet?