Use the measuring tape and collect the measurement of the base or existing counter starting with the width. When you have your length and width figured out you can now transfer those measurements to the sheet of plywood. With the tiles being a 12×12-inch square the width at the corner should be in 12×12-inch sizes. Next, place a tile next to the 1/2×1/2-inch pieces of wood and mark the height of the tile.


How To Install A Tile Counter Top Spin Doctor Leveling System | Duration 4 Minutes 19 Seconds

Put wood glue along the lines of the 1/2×1/2-inch pieces of wood and glue in place along the perimeter. Before actually gluing them down, however, you want to place them on to the plywood surface you nailed down to ensure they all fit. Make sure you are in a well ventilated then spray a coat of paint on the plywood. What will happen is the wood will take on a metal look which will look great with the tile. Make sure the tiles are flush against the wooden perimeter and against each other.

You can make your new countertop as wide as you want as long as the existing base can support it. Measure out the perimeter of the countertop and cut the 1/2×1/2-inch pieces of wood to match.

When the glue has secured the wood in place you can then nail it to the plywood to keep it there. After your dry install run through you can remove the tiles and set them off to the side for later.

Building A Kitchen Island With Tile: Getting Started by hoosierhomemade.com

We wanted to make the kitchen island surface durable while fitting our style and also coordinate with our existing countertops. We put down some vinyl flooring a few years ago but never had the confidence to tackle using ceramic tile. This not only gave us an idea of how big we could make the island, it also gave us some time to work around the kitchen and see if the size was going to fit without disrupting the flow of the kitchen.

And there were several questions we needed answers to before we got started. So we measured and marked out an area on the floor with painter’s tape.

Build An Outdoor Table With Tile Top and Steel Base by familyhandyman.com

Ask to see a porcelain or stone tile (or a combination) that’ll withstand harsh weather conditions.



Outdoor Kitchen Countertops & Tile | Duration 1 Minutes 36 Seconds

This tabletop is made from a plywood core wrapped in cement board, sealed with a paint-on membrane and then covered with ceramic tile and grout. Then you drill and assemble them and finally, screw them to the tabletop. To help guide the process, we’ve broken the tasks down into daily steps.

There’s no need to buy fancy plywood for this because you’ll be covering all sides of it. While you’ve got your carpentry tools out, make a full-size template from a 12 x 20-in. Align the marks with the center marks on the 2×4 blocks and firmly pull the bar until you feel it bend slightly. Align the marks with the vise jaws, tighten and then hammer the piece to form crisp 90-degree bends. Then cut it out with a jigsaw fitted with an abrasive cutting blade. Let the mortar stand for 10 minutes, then spread it onto one side of your disc with a 1/4-in. Buy an extra piece in case one doesn’t turn out—the bending process can be tricky.

This first little bend is easy because you have a lot of mechanical advantage. When you get toward the last few marks of your bending, you may want to pull the bar from the bent side to get a bit more leverage. You may need to stick the leg piece back into the jig and unbend portions to get the curve to match your template.

Be sure to smooth the outside curve of the plywood with a belt sander outfitted with a coarse belt. Mix your thin-set mortar in a bucket to a toothpaste consistency, or if you’re a cook, think of a bowl of mashed potatoes. Trowel the mortar onto the wood disc and then comb it with a 1/4-in. I selected a stone tile for the sides that measured about 1-3/4 in. You may have to shim the whole top slightly above the workbench or shim each tile with pieces of thin cardboard. Complete each quadrant, let the mortar set for 24 hours, then grout the top. Apply the mortar to only one-fourth of the top with your notched trowel and press the tile into place.

It’s easy to remove the mortar with a screwdriver while it’s in this “plastic state” before it sets hard. Push the grout into the spaces between the tile with a grout float and then wipe the top with a damp sponge several times to remove the excess grout and prevent hazing. Paint the wood braces and then wipe the steel with mineral spirits and scuff it with steel wool to prepare the surface.

Get your wood and steel at a home center, and look for interesting tile at a local tile supplier. Our table, with two sizes of stone tile, cost about one-fifth the cost of a store-bought table! The leg base is made from sturdy steel bars (from your home center or hardware store) that you bend (with the aid of a template and homemade jig) into pleasing curves.



Top Outdoor Kitchen With Amazing Finishing Materials… | Duration 1 Minutes 8 Seconds

Figure on spending 10 to 12 hours over the course of a week to complete the project.

Carefully align the edges of the discs and screw them together with 1-1/4 in. If the plywood is a bit bowed, position the bows opposite to each other to cancel the warp when you screw them together. Move the bar to the next inch mark and proceed with slight bends at each mark. Then insert the bar into the jig again and either bend or unbend it as needed.

Slide the bar between the blocks, align the first mark with the center and pull the bar toward you. Don’t be tempted to overbend; a tiny nudge at each mark adds up to a nice even curve. Check the work piece every fifth bend or so to see how it’s matching up with your template. Don’t let yourself get too bent out of shape trying to conform exactly to the template. Be sure to drill them accurately to ensure that the struts hold the legs equally. The disc assembly you glued together the day before is now ready to cover with cement board. A smooth, even curve here will give you a nice even edge to tile later. Instead, look for a special abrasive cutting blade for your jigsaw at your hardware store or home center. Then let it stand for about 10 minutes to start the chemical reaction. The trowel helps you get just the right amount of mortar and distribute it evenly.

Knock the rough edges off the discs with a rasp and then hand-sand the edges with coarse sandpaper. The membrane will keep moisture from migrating into the disc and causing the core to swell and, down the road, to crack. If you end up cutting tile, be sure to soften the sharp edge with a smoothing stone. Work your way around the disc and cut or adjust the tile spacing to fit the last piece. Set your tabletop onto your workbench and then test the tile for coverage. Depending on the size of the tile, the tile can be lower than the bottom edge slightly or even up from the bottom a bit; neither variation from flush will be noticed on a finished table.

When you’ve worked your way around the entire edge, let the mortar set for 24 hours before tiling the top.



How To Tutorial On My Granite Tile Counter Top / Bar Top | Duration 5 Minutes 7 Seconds

After a few hours, check for mortar that may have oozed up above the tile surface. We positioned our leg assembly to align with the tile cross in the tabletop.

Since our tile was stone and had no glaze, we purchased a sealer, rolled it on the tile and let it dry before grouting.

If you’re using glazed tile, you’ll be able to grout without sealing. Let the grout set and cure for a few days, then apply a sealer to the entire top to protect it.

Decorative Wall Tiles by tileshop.com

Easy to clean and durable, tile is a beautiful choice for spaces throughout the home. The walls of your home are a blank canvas; make wall tiles your paint. Bring drama and glamour to your walls with high-end marble and reflective tiles. Wall tile can be the same as the tile you would use on your floor but with one added bonus—texture! A tile wall is more of an investment than paint or wallpaper, but the installation and style will last for many more years. It adds color, texture and a sense of space to a room, not to mention that you can even create works of art out of tile, which is a great budget option instead of tiling an entire wall. But since your walls are not going to experience nearly as much wear and tear as your floors, any wall tile will last a long time. Floor tile and wall tile don’t have to match and neither does your backsplash tile.

You can achieve different looks by tiling a full wall versus part of it. This is where tile blurs the lines with art (and where it gets fun). As long as it is approved for wall use, you can choose any size tile you want. A large-format wall tile may not look as good in a tiny bathroom as it would in a large living area.


Slate Tile Counter Top Installation Time Lapse | Duration 17 Minutes 1 Seconds

Not all wall tile is approved for floor or shower use, so check with a store associate before you use wall tile anywhere else. The first step to keeping your grout clean is sealing it after it is installed. No, wall tile should always be grouted to avoid chipping and cracking when tiles rub together. If you are using natural stone, we recommend that you seal it unless it is specifically noted that it does not need to be sealed. We recommend sealing all of your grout to keep it clean and make regular maintenance easier.

D tiles that you could not walk on can be used to add texture and depth, making the walls of your home the perfect place to experiment. As with all home remodeling projects, the cost greatly depends on the materials.

You should also consider the different benefits of wall tile. They range from small tiles and mosaics, made up of even smaller tiles, to large-format tiles, which means at least one side of the tile is over 16” long.

You can definitely feel free to mix and match tiles, patterns and materials in each location of your home and even in each room. If the tile you like is not approved for floor or shower use, a store associate can point you in the direction of a similar or coordinating tile that is safe to use in those areas. This will help ease the maintenance and keep the new look of the grout. We never recommend installing tile over drywall, paneling or wallpaper.

3 Ways To Tile A Countertop by wikihow.com

Note, however, that this requires not only a lot of tools, but time — tiling is not a quick process by any means. Break down your counter into workable sections, dividing up the room by large obstacles like the sink or oven. Know your planned tile size, how many tiles you need total, and how the tiles will fit into rows ahead of time.

Unscrew the sink from underneath the countertop, if there are screws holding it in place.

Run a razor around the edge of the sink to cut the caulking before removing the fixture. Use a carpenter’s pencil to outline the dimensions of the existing countertop on a piece of 3/4 inch (2 cm) plywood. Clamp a straight edge along the marked lines to guide the saw so that your lines are perfectly straight. From underneath the existing countertop, trace the sink opening onto the plywood base.



Slate Tile Counter Top Installation | Duration 30 Minutes 30 Seconds

Use the plywood base as a template to make an identical countertop piece out of the concrete board. When done, reinforce any corners and edges with fiberglass mesh tape. You must simply get the surface ready to absorb the mortar and adhere the tiles. Use a circular saw and a straight-edge to saw off any rounded, overhanging edges. It can help to use a marker and a straight-edge to draw out your rows of tiles in advance. If you have a caulk box, you can use that to snap horizontal lines, or use a laser level to help keep things straight.

You’ll need to use it all while it is still wet and well mixed, and you can always pour and mix more. Be sure to purchase a mortar able to handle the moisture of the kitchen or bathroom. This will allow for expansion so that your edge tiles do not crack. If not, you still have some time to adjust the tiles while the mortar sets. Use a tile cutter to cut any irregular edge and sink pieces if they only require trimming, then set those in place last.

While it may be only a few hours, waiting overnight ensures that everything is well set when you get back to work. Work smoothly and methodically, using a rubber float to spread the grout and wipe up any excess. This should wipe off any residue or grit that got on the tiles while installing. Find a grout and tile sealer that works for you at your local hardware store and apply according to the directions on the bottle. If you want to avoid removing your sink, try installing a thin backer board over your countertops and tiling on that.

Finally, allow the mortar to set overnight and then, in the morning, use a rubber float to press grout into the grout lines.

Clean everything off the countertops and empty the kitchen so that you can move and work freely. If you can get a tile size that requires minimal cutting and fitting your life will be much easier. You should also remove the stove, though this is much easier to simply slide out than a sink. If you have a garbage disposal, you will need to cut the power to that, as well. This includes the flexible tubing that connects your dishwasher to your sink plumbing, and the hose clamps that keep your disposer in place. If there are clamps holding the sink to the countertop, these will need to be removed, too. Pry the sink loose from the countertop, then remove it completely and set it aside. If you need to make smaller cuts or round out your corners, finish up with a jigsaw. Cut the concrete board to the shape of the countertop using a spiral cutting saw with a masonry bit. These boards sometimes come pre-cut, or you can have them cut at a local hardware store if you cannot cut the concrete.

Screw the plywood base onto the existing countertop using wood screws. Place the concrete board on top of the plywood base and screw it into place with galvanized screws.

This prevents chipping, cracking, or crumbling along the cut edges of the concrete. If you have a laminate (popular, smooth, plastic-like surface) countertop, you only have a little preparatory work to do. It is important to determine the appropriate placement and spacing of the tiles before you tile countertops. Place a tile in the middle and work out, cutting the end tiles when necessary. Only make as much mortar as you need, opting for a little bit less if you’re unsure how much to pour. Lay the mortar down so that it evenly covers the surface, moving in mostly one direction.

For the edges and backsplash, apply tile mastic, which is flexible, along the outside edge of the countertop. Removing grout is much more difficult once it dries, so work to get rid of excess while it’s still soft.

Use a straight edge to determine that your lines are straight, and place a level on top of the tile countertop to determine that your tiles are uniformly set into the grout. For larger cuts, or making many cuts, you should invest or rent a wet saw, which is made to cut tile without deforming or cracking it. After tiling a countertop, you should let the mortar dry according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Remove excess grout by holding the rubber float at a 45-degree angle and dragging it across the tiles in a diagonal direction. Once the grout is evenly distributed in the joints, clean the grout off the tile faces using a damp sponge. Only swipe over the surface of the tiles — do not dig into the grout lines. To protect your tiles for years, you’ll want to apply a finishing solution to the grout. Next, use a tile cutter as you go to fit individual tiles to any irregular edges.

Kitchen Floor Tiles The Tile Shop by tileshop.com

Its easy-to-clean and durable nature means that it’s well suited to stand up to spills, messes and heavy foot traffic. Set the tone in your kitchen by installing a tile floor that will create a beautiful, welcoming vibe.

Due to its cost effectiveness and easy maintenance, most of our tile is very well suited for kitchen floor installation. Based on style and maintenance, the best tile for you is the one that fits your needs and lifestyle. The strength and durability are the biggest advantages that wood-look tile has over hardwood flooring, especially in the kitchen. Tile is ideal for high-traffic areas like your kitchen because it is very durable. Natural stone like marble, travertine and slate also offer phenomenal durability. Make sure you choose a non-acidic, antibacterial cleaner for both man-made and natural stone tiles. If you have white cabinets, you have a blank slate and almost limitless options for your flooring.

With a rich array of colors, styles and finishes to choose from, it’s easier than you think to transform a dated kitchen into an inviting room that draws your family and friends together. Slate and tumbled natural stone tiles are also perfect for fitting in with any kitchen decor, offering a timeless look with many different styles that are easy to clean and maintain. Whether you’re looking for traditional black and white, rustic natural stone or authentic wood-look tile, the color possibilities are endless. Porcelain and ceramic tile are hard, resilient materials that are great choices.

A softer marble or slate may not be the best choices for homes with pets because they have the potential to scratch.

Installing Tile Outdoors by tileoutlets.com

These substrates must be structurally sound, meet deflection requirements, and meet on-plane requirements. For that reason, it’s critical that you properly take into consideration mandatory expansion joints, moisture considerations, and thermal demands. Given how much variation is possible – based on the project, the location and the materials used – this do it yourself or how to section will highlight what you need to consider so you don’t encounter installation issues. In colder climates, the action of the freezing and thawing temperature can cause tile installations to fail.

This situation relates directly to the water absorption rates for the tile selected. For example, certain tiles in the impervious water absorption class (less than. 5% water absorption) may be suitable. The powdery residues are soluble salts that are brought up through the tile work from the substrate below through hydration. Ideally, the concrete slab would be constructed in such a way to minimize the water absorption. First the required slope to completely drain the surface water should be required.

This is accomplished with a gravel base below the slab to facilitate drainage. For example, the edges of the slab can be treated with a waterproofing membrane below ground level. When a project is desired on existing concrete slabs such as patios and walkways, the suitability of the existing concrete is the issue.

The biggest difference between indoor and outdoor tile installations is that outdoors your installation will be subject to mother nature – in other words, the unexpected. You’ll find an explanation and images highlighting the most common failures below. Therefore expansion joints are necessary every 8′-12′ in each direction. When excess moisture inside of a set tile freezes and then thaws, pressure builds to a point where tiles can spall and fracture. Be sure to select a tile recommended for use in areas subject to freeze/thaw conditions. Tile with a high water absorption rate should not be selected in areas that have freeze/thaw conditions. Efflorescence is the stubborn powdery residue that commonly collects in grout joints when the surface dries. The hydration is simply the evaporation of the water brought to the surface that deposits the salts.

These requirements need to comply with federal, state, and local building codes. In this case, certain precautions can be taken to minimize the affects of water absorption into the slab. Also, sources of water like sprinklers can be repositioned to minimize surface water. Tile should not be placed on existing concrete that has structural defects, is not on-plane within ¼” in 10 feet, is not sloped to provide complete surface drainage, and slabs that do not have the required expansion joints.

If the existing concrete slab is not suitable for the installation of tile directly on its surface, another method must be chosen or the slab should be replaced to allow the project to proceed.

How To Tile A Countertop by hgtv.com

Begin by turning off the water shutoff valve to the sink and placing a bucket under the supply line. Next, loosen the clamps holding the sink in place and slice through the caulking between the sink and countertop with a utility knife. Also measure the depth from the front edge to the wall behind at both ends. Also check the level at this point and inspect the cabinets and make any necessary repairs. Position the plywood on top of the cabinets, flush with the cabinet edge.

Cut cement backerboard to size and position it directly on top of the plywood. Apply a thin layer of mastic over the joint to create a smooth surface. Measure the area out for the sink and cut away the backerboard and plywood with a jigsaw. Using mastic and a trowel, “butter” the edge of the bullnose trim with mastic and place on the counter edge. Insert tile spacers to maintain consistency in the layout and to leave room for grout. Around outlets, hold tile in place and mark cut lines with a pencil to determine the cuts to be made. Once the surface is dry, buff and polish the tiles with a dry cloth.

Remove any brackets or screws that are holding the countertop in place. Use a utility knife to slice through the caulking between the countertop and wall.

Measure the span of the base cabinets, from the corner to the outside edge. With a carpenter’s square, check the square of the walls at any corners.

Have plywood cut to size at your local home supply store (or use a circular saw). Attach the plywood with two-inch screws driven into the cabinet framing every two inches. Remove, then add mastic to the plywood with a notched trowel and set the backerboard on the mastic. Dry fit the tiles by drawing perpendicular lines in the corner of the countertop using the front edge as a guide. After dry fitting, see what cuts, if any, need to be made to the tiles to cover the area. Attach a 1×2 tack strip along the edge to support the bullnose trim until the mastic dries. Use a twisting motion to set tiles in place, beginning along the front edge of the counter.

Next, spread mastic on the wall and on the back of each piece of tile and trim for the backsplash. Once the trim is in place, measure the wall to find the center above the stove. Use longer screws to reattach the outlets to compensate for the new tiles.

Give the tiles a good cleaning with a damp sponge, being careful not to pull any of the grout out of the joints.

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