Wayfair carries a large selection of counter (24″-26″) patio bar stools that’ll add a classy finishing touch to your kitchen, patio, or dining area. Choose your counter (24″-26″) patio bar stools with confidence. What kind of features were you looking for with your counter (24″-26″) patio bar stools?

Wayfair sells counter (24″-26″) patio bar stools to accommodate any reasonable seating budget. Counter (24″-26″) patio bar stools provide a reliable, height-specific place to sit.Wayfair is the best place to shop if you’re looking for where to buy patio bar stools online.

Find many attractive options that’ll provide a boost to your decor in addition to providing convenient seating. Wayfair offers them in high-quality metal, beautiful wood, and attractive wicker or rattan. You’ll find plenty of affordable options that’ll look great in your space while providing the seating options you need.

Best Patio Bar Pictures and Top 2018 Outdoor Bars by diyhomedesignideas.com

In addition to the size, the shape of your bar can vary as well.


How To Make Concrete Countertops For An Outdoor Bar Or Kitchen | Duration 5 Minutes 35 Seconds

Bars can be incorporated into any type of patio as a free standing structure or in addition to a kitchen. There are numerous different décor schemes to choose from, however, some of the best home wet bar ideas include a classic, modern or tropical styled set up. Many do it yourself homeowners prefer the traditional grey color of the concrete, which is perfect for modern patio flooring ideas. When choosing your seating options, make sure to keep in mind the counter height. Some of the best patio ideas are those that match your house and blend together your indoor and outdoor spaces. The most popular way to add a tropical flair to your outdoor space is to build a tiki bar. Outdoor pool bars can be highlighted with bamboo frames and thatched roofs or umbrellas. Teak wood is one of the top choices for outdoor furniture because it is strong, durable, and extremely weather resistant. The size of your bar will depend on the size of your home, however, home bars tend to can range anywhere between 3 and 15 feet in length. Classic bars tend to take on the look of old 1950’s pubs, incorporating dark stained woods with intricate carvings into their countertops combined with ornately styled pub chairs or wood bar stools. When choosing the outdoor dining furniture for your modern styled patio bar, consider using pieces that maintain sleek, and clear cut lines.

For Outside Bar

The best patio photos show that the modern bar stool style tends to have high, metal chairs set underneath a glass or concrete countertop. If you are at a loss for ideas, a great place to start is by looking at your existing backyard patio and your home. White bar stools are commonly used in cottage, modern, and traditional styled bar themes because it is a universal color and matches almost any décor. There are a variety of different types of bars you can install in your backyard, however the most popular set up is a patio bar. The most common features include a counter with storage for food and alcohol, accompanied by bar stools and tables with some type of overhead patio cover. Tropical bar themes are a favorite among homeowners with swimming pools in their backyards. Tiki bar plans create a beautiful and relaxing atmosphere similar to that you would find at a beach. Teak furniture is a common accessory to any tropical styled patio space and can be used in bar stools, dining sets, and roofing structures.

Outdoor Bar Furniture by homedepot.com

Made from weather-resistant materials, our outdoor bar furniture lasts season after season, and that includes bar tables and outdoor bar stools . Bar height dining sets come in an assortment of styles that’ll fit any décor. Patio bar furniture makes relaxing and entertaining at home the place to be. Patios, decks, balconies – whatever space you have, bar height furniture literally elevates your seating arrangements.

The added height is ideal for traditional bar seating or simply to provide a better view from your deck or patio.

Cedar Fence Picket Outdoor Bar Countertop: 12 Steps With Pictures by instructables.com

It can be made even cheaper if you use standard painted outdoor screws and don’t seal it. I have come up with a few options to remedy this; weight of some sort on the bottom shelf or kickers between the legs and the ground beneath the bar top. For instance you may rather completely enclose the fronts and sides with paneling, beadboard, or cover with bamboo. However, cedar is one of the more resilient woods to resist these effects.

You may need to spend some time picking out these 18 pieces, but they are roughly a third the cost of their finished, exact dimension siblings you will find inside the store.

You will actually need only 16 of them but its good to have spares to choose from in case something doesn’t line up correctly. This step isn’t necessary but you gain 2″ of usable counter space without bar top above. In that case you would just cut the dog ear off 3 pickets and make sure all 3 are the exact same length.

You may then go back and install screws without getting frustrated with “walking screws”.



How To Build A Free Standing Bar With Countertop | Duration 3 Minutes 1 Seconds

And “the counter front” is from the prospective from standing on the counter side. This will line up with the top of the cleat when you attach it to the bar leg. Just make sure your leg’s feet are pulled all the way to the “floor” 2×4.

You you will be able to get (6) of these from the remaining end of the pickets you cut the legs from. They should be exactly the same by holding them together and making sure each end is flush with your first piece. If you only have a jig saw or circular saw just measure twice and cut once :). How to attach the boards: when you attach the boards to the cleats, the shelf board’s cut end will touch right up against the leg. Now attach the board in the same location on the cleat on the middle leg assembly.



How To Make A Patio Bar Diy Concrete Counter Bar With Wood Base | Duration 11 Minutes 33 Seconds

At this point you may be discovering these pickets do vary slightly in size. Just make sure areas that need to be flush and square are so. Make sure shelf boards and legs are butted together at all locations and put one brad in each end of the shelf board to hold everything square. Pick the 5 straightest pieces that are also as close as possible to the same thickness. There should be little to no gap the entire length of the counter between the boards. If that isn’t satisfactory try one of the other boards you just cut. Once you have settled on a board grab the next one and repeat the process leaving the first board loose on the counter and test the new board against that one. To do this measure from the outside of one end cleat to the outside of the other end cleat. I have since gone back and installed 3 per board per support because much to my surprise the counter top boards did start to cup.

You could alternate back and forth between them or just attach down one. Now position the picket so the square end is flush with the outside of the 1×2 cleat on one end.The goal is for the bottom shelf boards to start on the outside of the bottom shelf cleat on one end and stop on the outside of the cleat on the other end. Now that this board is attached you may remove the spacers across the front of the bottom shelf. Lay it on top of the board you just installed and slide it toward the counter front until it meets the back of the counter center leg. Now remove this loose shelf board and place it on your work bench. Returning to your work bench measure that distance from the side opposite your marks for the sides of the counter leg. Using a jig saw remove this rectangular piece from your shelf board.



Diy Modern Outdoor Kitchen And Bar | Modern Builds | Ep. 21 | Duration 5 Minutes 15 Seconds

It will be easier to go the same route locating the center counter leg on this board by laying it on top of the boards you just installed and marking the sides of the leg on this final board. Get them like you want them and install them flush with the outsides of the 1×2 cleats. Essentially it is a straight flat piece of material that goes across 2 or more pieces that are the same width. Now with the same amount of weight on one board you should get little to no deflection due to the support from the adjacent boards.

You will see the angles opposing each other if you look at the narrow side. Ok now the easiest way to install these is to lay the bar on the counter front. The 20″ long, wide side, is the side touching the underside of the shelf boards. I used 2 screws per board going from the mending block into the bottoms of the shelf boards. Be careful not to run the screw too far into the mending block; we dont want screw tips coming through the tops of our shelves (the variable slip drill chuck will help here). Pull a measurement from the top of the left bar leg to the bottom of the right leg. Get the square end flush with the outside of one bar leg and the bottom of the picket in line with the bottom of all 4 cleats across that level. If you are standing on the bar side and pull on the bar top it will tip forward since the base doesn’t weigh as much as most bars.

You have to make sure every piece you pick out is straight and true and close to the same thickness and width as the last piece you added to your cart.I used bronze coated ones with serrated threads and a star bit head. And it helps the bar feel like it has the right amount of overhang without being obtrusive. This can be done by laying them across the counter top supports when you get to this step and put weight on all 3 at the point (above a support) where they touch and make sure the boards are even (not stepped) between each board. For the center leg you need the last counter leg, bar leg and, 6 cleats. Holding the legs even with the cleats and making sure everything is square when you attach it is the trick. Once you have a piece just like you want it the brad nailer gives you instant hold. Now add the bar leg by measuring / marking the top of the counter leg on the bar leg. Make sure its square and flush with the front of the bar leg. Essentially this serves as a “floor” so you know you are attaching the cleats in a manor that will leave the feet at the correct even location to sit on the floor without wobbling. If you are using your “floor” 2×4 clamped to the table you can space this using a small scrap 2×4 turned the narrow way so it is between the “floor” and the bottom of the cleat. Do not make them identical or the shelf cleats will be on the outside of one of the legs (see picture). Now go back and install all the screws if you haven’t already. If you add them up from the cut list you should be cutting (8) pieces 2′ – 5″. Make sure these are all the same length by using the first one you cut to compare to each newly cut piece. As you can see 4 of these 2′ – 5″ boards are for the middle shelf, 2 are the back part of the counter between the bar legs, and 2 are for the same location on the bottom shelf. The shelf board will be on top of the cleat, and your brad and screw will be installed from the top of the shelf board into the cleat. Repeat this to attach the middle leg and right leg together. Repeat the same process for the boards between the bar legs on the bottom shelf cleats. Its all good, its not supposed to be perfect thats the beauty of upcycling.



How To Build A Patio Bar With A Concrete Counter Top | Episode 15 Part 1 | Duration 16 Minutes 29 Seconds

Finally use two of the remaining 2′ – 5″ boards as temporary spacers between the counter legs on the bottom shelf cleat. Do you want your counter to be as long as this board or do you want it to just overhang the legs by an inch or so?

How to we ensure we are installing these boards in the center of the length of the counter top?

Write your measurement down (should be roughly 4′ – 10 5/8″). Repeat this for the next board keeping it firmly against the previous and even on the ends. By installing an extra screw at the edge of each board at each support you fight the cupping. Push this picket tight against the 2′ – 5″ boards that are installed between the bar legs. Now go to the other end and mark the location of the outside of this 1×2 cleat on the picket. Now that you have this mark cut this picket to that length, and 2 more just like it (remember to make cuts so you are removing the dog ear end). Make sure the ends of this board are even with the ends of the board you just installed and mark the location of the sides of the center counter leg on this shelf board. Now go back to the front edge of the previously installed board and measure the distance between the front of that board and the back edge of the center counter leg.

You should be able to mark the location of the counter leg on this board now using a square. Go back to the bottom shelf and make sure it fits like it should: notch fits around center leg, board lays flat beside the last board you installed, and it sits inside the end counter legs on top of the end cleats. If it fits good attach this board pushing it firmly against the last board you installed. The only difference is this time you measure from the front edge of the last board you installed to the front edge of the counter leg. Last time we pulled the measurement from the side opposite the leg marks. Now take your remaining (3) 2′ – 5″ boards (2 were used as spacers on the bottom shelf), and line them up along the middle shelf cleats. Remember to push the next board tight against the previously installed board. By attaching this plate or block you add rigidity to every piece it is attached to. However, once you install the mending block all the boards help to share the load, even if the weight is only placed on one board. Now that you have some info lets get to mending these shelves and the counter top. I cut the angle into each end to make the block more forgiving to hands passing in and out of shelf areas (see pictures). So for these mending blocks the 45 degree angle is cut from the wide side to the wide side. So the top (1 1/2″ side) should be 20″ long on one side and the bottom (the other 1 1/2″ side) should be roughly 18″ from end of angle area to end of angle area. Hold each mending block in the center between the legs and the same distance from the front of the bar and front of the counter (see pic). So the mending blocks are oriented in the opposite direction from the cleats.Another thought would be to buy enough pickets to completely cover the front and sides of the bar so it is enclosed if you prefer. Lay the bar on the counter front so the bar front is to the sky. Now take the same measurement from the right top to the left bottom. Then go to the opposite end and mark this picket on the outside of that bar leg.

The Best Bar Top Materials For Outdoor Bars by hunker.com

The patterns are typically pebbled or flecked in appearance, depending on the crystal, quartz and mineral mixture. Contact with direct sunlight over time can break down the polyester epoxy resin the granite is coated with, giving the material a slightly yellow color and an antique look, which you may or may not like. Aluminum quickly creates a small and slim top layer of oxide, protecting the surface from corrosion and disintegration. Wood is solid and heavy and creates a rustic natural ambiance that complements outdoor decor. Help prolong the lifespan of a wood bar top by locating it under some shade and applying outdoor resistant wood stain. The material coordinates with other outdoor furniture and is easy to clean. It can show wear over time, but as long as you clean it regularly and keep it covered between uses, it will remain in good condition for a long time. Personal taste, maintenance and cost are three factors that must be considered to assure the right investment is made. Some color options are greens, pale pinks, plums, reds and exotic blues. If possible, keep the granite bar under a tree or another shaded area. Aluminum is also lightweight, making it easy to rearrange or move into storage over the winter months. Teak and cedar wood are naturally resistant to weather damage and insects. Wood will naturally change in appearance over time; the color will change slightly and any natural imperfections will come to the surface. Stainless steel might become hot if exposed to extreme sunlight for several hours, but you can avoid that with shade or bar covers.

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