If you are stuck with dull looking floors and are thinking of doing a whole flooring re-do – think again, all you may need is a little buffing up! First, clean your floors properly by vacuuming up any dirt, dust or particles to avoid scratching your hardwood while shining. Soak your mop and squeeze out as much water as you can – you want your mop to be damp not wet. Dunk your mop in the solution, and squeeze it out until your mop is damp.


Marble Tile Restoration By Hand Polishing Pads | Duration 4 Minutes 26 Seconds

Dump your water/alcohol solution and refill the bucket with clean, warm water. To avoid blotchiness or any water marks, dry the floor with a towel. Anything acidic such as orange juice, soda, or other kinds of fruit juices will strip off the natural shine and make your marble floors dull forever. Get out your floor cleaning equipment and sweep or vacuum up any dust or debris. Dunk a large sponge into the soapy water, squeeze out the excess and rub down your marble floors.

Fill a bucket up with hot water and depending on how large your space is add 3/4 – 1 cup of vinegar. Mop up your floors and continue dipping it into the water/vinegar mixture to bring back as much shine as possible.

In a bucket, add one gallon of warm water and mix in one tablespoon of rubbing alcohol. Mop up your floors adding a little pressure to wipe away grime and better restore the shine. Instead, fill up a large bucket with warm water and 1 tbsp of dish soap. Then, take a damp cloth and go over the marble once again to clean off any soap.

Stepwise Approach To Restore Marble Flooring by sooperarticles.com

However, this shine fades away over time due to non- or lack of maintenance, or inadequate cleaning. And that is to replace your old, broken marble floor tiles with new ones. The sub-floor should be properly clean with no traces of dust and old mortar and grout. Before performing this act, you should be sure that you know how to run that specific equipment. Apply the mortar on the rear side first and move toward the near end. Check for alignment of the tile with the existing tile pattern using the carpenter’s tool.



Marble Floor Restoration | Duration 5 Minutes 48 Seconds

Allow it to rest for a couple of days and your floor is ready! This finish can have either a glazed or an unglazed look, with a choice of matt, satin or gloss appearance. They make their placements for flooring to walls and even the exterior of a house look elegant and stylish in a modern way.

That’s also true that, even if you clean and ensure timely maintenance for your marble flooring, it is bound to lose to its shine.

But, there is a solution that gives you glossy, glistening marble floors. If you will see closely, there will be grout and mortar on the sub-floor. You will need mechanical and electronic tools to remove the hardened mortar from the sub-floor. Take care of the thickness of the mortar as the level of replacement floor tile depends on it. Applying polish on marble flooring can be easily done with the machine. But according to a real estate and home décor monthly that today the extraction of marble is more broad than ever.

OHW • View Topic by oldhouseweb.com

The grout seems to be holding up very well, and the wall tile is in good shape.

Many old floor tile was a matte glaze, or in some cases actual stone such as marble. I never could get close enough to find out what that giant pendulum thing was. I also had to buy 6 sq ft of the vintage tile because i took out a cabinet and moved the toilet.

I used a tile product where the tiles are glued on a backer sheet, so it has a wider spacing between the tiles than the traditional method.

In those cases, you will never get a shiny finish unless you wax it. I basically want to erase the age of the tiles and make them look like new, but without simply dumping a chemical on them that might artifically shorten their lives. I maintain the floor with an ocassional damp mopping with weak bleach water. and if your tiles are original, what you are seeing isn’t grout, but instead a bed of cement (mine is about an inch thick). I think the coolest thing there was that giant pendulum that kept knocking down those things. Any insight into this or other solutions would be most welcome!

How To Restore A Marble Floor by homeguides.sfgate.com

With use however, this finish tends to dim, losing its luster as the tiles become dulled and scratched.

Cleaning your marble floor at this point makes little difference; scratched or broken tiles always appear somewhat dirty. Place the end of a prybar beneath the loose or damaged tiles and apply pressure to the bar to pull the tiles away from the floor. Clear the subfloor beneath the removed tiles of the mortar that held the tiles in place. Hold the tool against the mortar at a 45-degree angle and turn on the blade. Turn off the tool and sweep up the mortar from the subfloor’s surface.



Restoring The Shine To A Marble Floor Part 2 | Duration 1 Minutes 53 Seconds

Spread the mortar along the rear of the tiles using a notched steel trowel and then use the notches in the trowel to raise the mortar into a series of ridges for better gripping.

Make certain that the tile is level with the surrounding tiles using a carpenter’s level, adjusting the tiles as needed. Remove any excess mortar from the surface of the tile immediately and allow the mortar to set for two hours. Remove any excess grout from the surface of the tiles using a damp sponge within 15 minutes of grout placement. Wait 24 hours before continuing with the floor restoration to allow the mortar and grout to begin to set.

Attach 100-grit sandpaper to an orbital sander and run the sander over the scratches, using small circles to grind the edges of the scratches down to the tile surface, leaving light lines in the tile. Change the sandpaper a final time to 220-grit and sand the surface of the tiles again, smoothing the tiles to the touch. Pour a quarter-sized circle of polish onto the pad and then place the pad onto the tile. Brush a light layer of stone sealant over the marble to prevent staining. Don a dust mask to prevent breathing in particles during the honing process.

This can be a problem especially if you are getting the house ready to sell. With a bit of manual labor you can restore your floor’s finish, repairing the surface and buffing a shine into it that makes the marble look as good as it did on the day it was installed. Strip the grout surrounding the tiles that you’re removing by using a utility knife to cut the grout out of the joints. Move the blade against the mortar, cutting through to the subfloor beneath, and then move the blade along the subfloor to remove the mortar. Replace the loosened tiles back onto the floor using thinset mortar. Press the tile to the floor, aligned with the surrounding tiles and maintaining the same spacing.

Replace the broken tiles with whole tiles purchased to match the tiles in the room. Regrout the joints surrounding the tiles by spreading the grout across the tile surface with a grouting float to fill the joints completely. Wait two hours and then wipe the surface of the tiles with a lint-free cloth to remove any grout residue before it hardens in place. Remove any scratches from the marble floor tiles by honing the surface. Change the sandpaper to 150-grit and apply the sander to the light lines, grinding at the marble until you can no longer see the lines. Use a 4-inch angle grinder with a polishing pad to polish the floor tiles.

Turn on the grinder and polish the surface of the tile with the pad, spreading the polish onto the tiles.



Restoring The Shine To A Marble Floor | Duration 2 Minutes 41 Seconds

More than a single application may be required to sufficiently polish the tile. Allow the sealant to dry for 48 hours before using the marble floor.

How To Restore Terrazzo Floors by thisoldhouse.com

Mask the lower 24 inches of the room’s walls with plastic sheeting.

Add steel weights to the machine to increase the downward pressure on the floor. Pass over the floor four times in an east-west direction, and then four times in a north-south direction. Use an angle grinder to smooth the floor around the edges of the room and any other places the grinding machine couldn’t reach. Remove a little weight from the machine, then grind the floor again. Allow the adhesive to harden, then grind each patch smooth using an angle grinder fitted with 40-grit sandpaper. Wet the floor with a sponge, then polish the patches with an angle grinder and diamond pad. Remove a little weight each time you switch abrasives, and grind the final pass with 3, 500-grit disks. Sprinkle an acid-based compound polish onto the floor, then polish the floor with a wet polisher.

Install 30-grit diamond disks onto an electric floor-grinding machine. Release more water from the reservoir on the machine, as necessary. Patch any holes in the floor by first enlarging the holes with an electric chipping hammer.

Continue grinding the floor moving through eight more progressively finer grits of diamond disks. Pass back and forth over the floor, making 20 passes over each row.

Restoring Victorian Tiles by tilecleaning.co.uk

The home owners had recently bought the property and had uncovered the floor under an old carpet. They accepted the price for the work and worked out a date for the work to start.


Restoring Marble Floor | Duration 1 Minutes 51 Seconds

The tiles were also removed in these areas and a new sub floor created to lift the floor in-line with the rest of the hallway. Nearly all the many loose tiles were removed and re fixed in place, unfortunately a few loose tiles were left as removing these would have caused more damage to the floor. The resulting slurry was removed with a wet vacuum and rinsed off thoroughly with water.

They wondered if the floor was fixable and worth getting repaired, cleaned and sealed. There were many cracked and loose tiles and there were a lot of stains, carpet glue and paint on the tiles. I discussed the work that would be needed and how we would proceed. The immediate result showed a marked improvement and you could now get a real impression of how beautiful the floor actually was.

Beforehand he floor was tested with the moisture meter to ensure the it was fully dried. It’s important to use a breathable sealer on these old floors where no damp proof membrane has been installed otherwise moisture can become trapped under the floor and will find its way up the walls instead.

Repairing Marble Tile Grout Lines by thespruce.com

While the material itself is relatively delicate, you have to be aware that the grout lines that surround each tile are also susceptible to moisture penetration, stains, and the growth of mold. Removing and then re-grouting these lines is a great way to revitalize the look of a marble installation without having to go to the expense and hassle of completely re-doing the floor. If left unprotected, both dry dust and wet grout can soak into the pores of these tiles, causing permanent stains. This is especially important if it has been more than six months since the last time you applied sealer to it. This can kick up a lot of grout dust, so make sure the area is well-ventilated. If you just want to do a quick job you can remove the grout down just the middle of the joints between the individual pieces of marble. However, you should strive to remove all of the grout as thoroughly as possible if you want the best look and the most consistent coloring.

Then mop the floor down, using an equal parts solution of water and vinegar.

A new grout color can change the look of a room almost as much as an entirely new floor. Swipe excess grout away as you work, making certain not to allow it to dry on the marble. At the same time, you want to be careful that excess liquid doesn’t spill off of the sponge, and run off into the grout seams, turning the mix into a soupy mess. Then you need to apply another coat of chemical surface sealer to the floor.



How To Restore Marble Polishing Ruined By Corrosion Of Acidic Cleaners | Duration 9 Minutes 36 Seconds

A second coat of seal will also help to protect the surface of the tiles themselves.

If not properly cared for, over time these lines can become dark, nasty ropes of horror lacing beneath your feet. It is a relatively easy project, and it can be done quickly, allowing you to make a dramatic improvement for a small investment. That is why the very first thing that you want to do is to apply a coat of a marble surface sealing agent to the entire floor. As you work, be very careful to avoid the edges of the tiles themselves, as you do not want to chip or scratch them. This will allow you to finish the job quickly and will look somewhat better. Use the grout float to apply the grout to the seams between the marble tiles, holding it at a 30-degree angle as you sweep it across the floor;s surface.

You want to remove the grout before it has a chance to set. You should also take care to avoid swiping bits of grout out of place with a careless sweep of the sponge. This is because grout is a porous material, and it will also need protection against moisture penetration and staining agents.

How To Clean Restore Marble Shower Floors Walls by marble-cleaning-products.com

Because showers are regularly exposed to water containing minerals, high alkaline soap and shampoos, the marble surface easily accumulates soap scum buildup. If you’re wondering how to clean and restore your marble shower in the most effective manner, this blog post will enlighten you on the best way to clean and restore your marble shower floors and walls.

In cases of where etch marks, scratches, water spots are present, a marble restorer is the best companion for the job. In most situations, this calls for a more extensive approach to cleaning and restoring the marble. Additionally, the marble refinishing kit can help you save hundreds of dollars compared to hiring a professional to do the work. A marble polish can make future shower cleaning much easier, for the polish helps to defend the marble from water, oil, and dirt penetrating the marble’s pores. It’s safe to use and works great on a number of other natural stone surfaces like granite or travertine.

Over time, shower walls are susceptible to etching, dull marks, and unattractive streak lines showing loss of color and gloss.

There’s a lot more to cleaning marble showers than meets the eye. To effectively bust through grime, restore etching and scratching, and renew your marble shower walls and floors – explore our professional-grade marble care products.

Clean Vintage Bathroom Tiles Caulk More Cleanly With Painter’s Tape by younghouselove.com

So it was on to the next step, which involved taping off all the places that we needed to re-caulk. The details: caulk, smooth caulk with finger, and quickly remove tape before caulk starts to set. Plus the fabric shower curtain hangs down completely obscuring the new caulk line and that tile anyway. We tried doing it ourselves but the crazy old configuration of the pipes behind the wall made it necessary to call in the experts (who actually needed to use a diamond blade to cut through a 2-inch cement wall to access the old rusty pipes). When it came to new fixtures to install, the pickins were slim because we had to match the old three-across configuration of our prior faucets. We had a few other less-fun and less-interesting steps once the grout party had wrapped. So this post is one big smorgasbord of updates (but the good kind of smorgasbord, with exotic cheeses and chocolate fondue). Compared to the last nine months of gradual progress on our beach house, it feels like things are moving at breakneck speed lately.

It’s absolutely beautiful, and it really does look brand new with the peroxide. Of course we think the fact that we used waterproof white caulk has something to do with the durability that we’ve been experiencing.

Thanks for all your tips, am currently struggeling wiith lots of issues in renovation. I do know that something too strong can etch (create tiny scratches on) your tiles so perhaps 40% peroxide is milder than straight bleach… but maybe that’s a good thing? I just moved into a recently renovated place, but the caulking in the bathroom already needs repairs. We also appreciate the look and feel of a real ceramic tub instead of something plastic, but we can totally understand if you go for that method since it drops right in on top of your tub with little maintenance. The tile and grout in our master shower and hall tub surrounds are the last bit of smoke stain remaining. It is reassuring to know we aren’t the only young couple with an old house and major to-do list!

I are working on our first house and the bathrooms are major on the list. Since you are such an expert, do you have any experience painting/reglazing tiles?

I would like to paint the floor and vanity tiles the same shade of white, so we would only be dealing with 1 shade of blue. We’ve painted and done a lot of improvements, but you’ve inspired more ideas! But, would you rip the tile out and redo it, or do you have a better suggestion? We have a 1956 bungalow with a peach and black bathroom (otherwise just like yours). They thought that they could just simply scrape off the ceramic tile wainscot, not realizing that it wasn’t the cheaper thin set type, more common to the 1950s, but the heavy-duty thick ceramic tile set in mortar on wire mesh! They put up drywall and wallpaper and a three-piece tub and shower surround! I have yet to restore the bathroom, but it looks better to me now in a state of transition than what it looked like on moving in day. I loveeee the transformation and will definitely have to pass this on to her! I removed all of it and then went at it with some white silicon caulk. Is it possible to remove the old tiles, scrape out the dry mortar, apply thinset mortar, and install and grout the new tile while keeping the rest of the area in tact?

Also, is switching out bathroom sink faucets fairly cut-and-dry if you match your new faucet to the existing holes? And of course we love to get three or more estimates to meet with people and see how comfortable they make us feel.

And it’ll literally change the way you look at your bathroom (or any other place that has bad caulk in your house). We actually couldn’t find an exact match, but it’s pretty close. But it sure is nice to know that when a guest pulls back the curtain there won’t be a hairy surprise waiting for them anymore. Since our tub was reglazed about 8 years ago by the previous owner, the glaze was perfect everywhere except for around the drain. Look at the difference a little ring of the stuff can make! They were original to the house (51 years old) and the corroded knobs and leaky faucet just weren’t up to par anymore. Luckily they quoted us a price before they discovered the cement wall. This is the story of removing the sliding shower doors in our master bathroom. So this post is one big smorgasbord of updates (but the good kind of smorgasbord, with exotic cheeses and chocolate fondue).

We had another progress-filled week at the beach house thanks to clocking over 40 hours of tiling across four days to finally finish all of the tile (well, almost all of the tile).

Here’s how we added this subway tile backsplash in our aunt’s kitchen using affordable tile sheets. I bet it makes getting out of bed a lot easier in the morning when you can go take a shower in your awesome “new” bathroom! It is always so rewarding when you can put a small amount of time and money into a project and be happy with it. We went on a caulking spree once we saw the difference taping makes.

I recently learned the trick of using painters tape to caulk as well. I want to rechaulk my glass shower enclosure which has the cultured marble sorround on 2 sides. It’s still super affordable and easy, so definitely feel free to give it a whirl! I was dreading the removal of the old caulking, but your pictures have really inspired me…especially because my job looks like cake by comparison. Of course the reglazers tell you the acrylic doesn’t last and the acrylic guys tell you the reglazing will be cracked within a year…we don’t know who to believe anymore!

It’s not a permanent solution but it really looks authentic and it’s pretty easy to clean (no harsh chemicals allowed, but we like organic stuff anyway). In short: the reglazing isn’t much work at all and it holds up well for a long time unless you go crazy with harsh chemicals or chip away at it with a screwdriver or something. By any chance do you have tips on regrouting the kitchen tile? Your basket weave floor is awesome since it’s black and white. Unfortunately, that’s exactly what happened with the main bathroom in my vintage 1941 house, well sort of! But, they left the original floor, a black and white basketweave similar to your bathoom after they realized that too was set in a bed of mortar and not just simply installed over a wood subfloor, common after 1950 or so. I spent hours wiping it away and trying to smooth it with my finger. It isn’t the prettiest, but we know now that we won’t have any leaks. It’s basically exactly as you described it, so you should have no problem taking it on. Did they have to cut into the tile, then retile after replacing?

Thanks so much for your help, inspiration and cheerful attitudes! It should be relatively straightforward, just remember to hunt down a fixture with the same configuration (you can’t go from a three faucet set-up to a one lever fixture since there will be gaping holes left in the tile). Need to find a plumber who knows how to replace these items w/o causing more damage. Do you think it might be the type of caulking we are using or is it that our bathroom doesn’t have good air circulation?

Now just so you understand where i am talking about it is along the inside of the shower where the wall and the tub meet the wall is almost seperated from the tub so water is slowly seeping its way intot he wall and that can’t be good. I stumbled across this desperately looking for ideas for my bathroom in my 1950-1960 house. My two biggest issues are 1)matching a black and “white” palette that isn’t a pure white more of an eggshell and 2)keeping true to the time period look of the old tiles.

Restoring Old Quarry Tiles by quarry.tilecleaning.co.uk

Keen on restoring such an original feature the owner set about removing the tiles on top using a chisel and scraping off the adhesive, it was at this point we got the call to assist. This was applied to a wet floor and scrubbed in using a scrubbing machine fitted with a coarse back pad running on slow speed. The quarry tiles were quite worn and very porous and as result needed at nine coats of sealer before they were fully sealed.

I do find multiple of coats of sealer works well on floors of this condition as it helped to hide the imperfections and marks caused by the chisel and scrapper.

Church Floors Posts by church-floor.tilecleaning.co.uk

I was contacted by the church as the floor had become dull and the floor was experiencing efflorescent salt issues. I completed the inspection of this beautiful church and as you can see from the pictures why the chairman was so keen to have the floor renovated. Mick has a wealth of knowledge and experience and we often team up on bigger projects. This was then rinsed off the floor and the soil extracted using a wet vacuum. This made short work of cleaning the salt minerals and grout haze, it would also neutralise any alkaline salts inherent in the tile that could cause problems later. We also used a steam cleaner on some of the stubborn areas where the dirt had been ingrained for some time! Using a non-breathable sealer would trap moisture under the floor where it can spread to the walls resulting in rising damp. I find leaving the floor restoration until last is the best approach as tradesmen usually exacerbate the problem.

Needless to say, this is painstaking work and takes time to get right, in this case most of the day. This process worked well, and it wasn’t long before the cleaning solution had turned black with the dirt that had been released from the floor.

Old floors like these don’t have a damp proof membrane installed and can suffer from white alkaline salts being deposited on the surface of the tile and damp evaporates up through the tile as it dries. There were two areas requiring attention, both with different patterned tiles. Once the tile adhesive had set the tiles were grouted in using a matching grout. The overall appearance was extremely tired and dull with wide lanes of ground-in dirt. It was an expensive investment for the company, but it certainly makes work like this much easier. Also, there were a few really stubborn areas in the corners where the oil finish had pooled and hardened during application. After a final rinse to remove any trace of cleaning product the whole floor was left to dry off overnight, assisted by two industrial fans and a commercial dehumidifier.

We knew that a damp proof membrane had been laid under the floor at the point of installation, so moisture ingress wasn’t going to be a problem. The cleaning process released a lot of dirt from the floor which was rinsed away with water and then extracted using a wet vacuum. Nick did a great job and was a pleasure to have around, always letting us know what was going to happen next.

The tiles had become very heavily ingrained with pigeon droppings, paint, cement, and general dirt over the years – and they were well past due for some professional attention. It also helps to draw old ingrained stains and remove heavy grease build-up. It does this by utilizing nano-sized particles to reach underneath tough stains, dissolve them, and lift them out. The cleaning solution was left to dwell for 45 minutes and then scrubbed into the tiles using a black pad fitted to a buffing machine. The tiles needed a good amount of time to dry completely because the old tiles don’t have the reasonably modern benefit of a damp-proof membrane. Quarry tiles and provides the natural look, matte finish that the proprietor of the church had requested. Needless to say, the parishioners will be very happy with the rejuvenated entrance way and, thanks to a highly durable sealant, the steps will be protected for the long term. While the church has cleaners that come in regularly to keep the building tidy for the parishioners, the old tiles really benefitted from a deep clean which tackled the stubborn ingrained dirt and staining that had built up over many years. As aforementioned, the vicar was keen to have the tiles sealed to make them easier to keep clean and protect them against ingrained dirt and staining for the future. There were also a number of missing tiles that needed to be replaced.

I then removed the cement, re-cemented and tiled the area accordingly. By that time, the heating system would have also been installed and would work to help the floor to dry out quicker. This really enhanced the old fire red pigment in the tiles. Looking at the before and after photographs, it’s easy to see why the architect, priest and the parishioners were absolutely delighted with the results. This product differs from most cleaners in that it uses nano-sized cleaning particles to deal with difficult to reach dirt ingrained in the stone. I applied two coats, leaving a few hours between coats; this brought the colour back without a high shine, as per the church warden’s request. I applied several thin coats of the sealer to build up solid protection on the floor.

The wet vacuum was employed again to remove the resultant slurry. Once we were happy the floor was clean, we left the floor to dry off overnight. Once the grout had dries and any haze polished off the tiles the floor was ready for the application of a protective sealer. This sealer is also fully breathable which is an essential feature for old floors that were laid without a damp proof membrane.

This process involves carefully removing the damaged tiles and scrapping out the subfloor to remove old adhesives and grout.

If the subfloor has crumbled away, then this also needs cleaning out and building backup with cement to the right level before fixing the tiles. This product is fully breathable and will cope well with any inherent damp issues that can cause problems in an old floor such as this, it also adds a nice shine to the tile as you can see in the photographs below. This gave the tiles a nice natural sheen and allowed the colours to shine through. The clients asked us to clean the floor and replace the thin oil finish with something more durable and easy to maintain. These machines force hot water under high pressure onto the floor and then extracts the resulting soiled water away with suction. To deal with these and completely remove the shiny patches it was necessary to use a 100-grit hand-held diamond block. What was an issue however was the high porosity of the clay tile now that it had been stripped of ingrained dirt and the old sealer. We were very satisfied with the final work and would have no hesitation in recommending this contractor to other potential clients. The resultant soil was then rinsed off with water and then extracted using a wet vacuum.

This process worked well to release the ingrained dirt from the tile and took off a lot of the glue however it took quite a few iterations and the use of a portable steamer to really get the floor clean. A lot of water was used in the process and although a lot of the moisture was extracted using a wet vacuum we felt it best to leave the floor to thoroughly dry out for a couple of days. Three coats were needed so it took most of the day to complete. A first coat seals and protects the floor and a second produces a gloss finish. I then repeated this process with the same products to clean the grout lines. As you can see from the photo below, the result of the restoration was transformational. He also wanted to know if the floors could be sealed to make ongoing maintenance easier – and this was certainly something we would be able to provide. There are only a few situations in which we wouldn’t recommend sealing tiles, such as if they are patio tiles which will already be under constant exposure to the weather. We decided on a similar shape and colour from original style. I discussed this issue with the architect and we decided to carry on with the completion in a month, leaving the floor enough time to dry out and for any other building work to be completed.

This is an interesting mix of hard wearing and high end tiles, and while the floor was in dire need of a deep clean, it could be restored back to looking fantastic once again. We were called after the builders had finished their work, to restore the floor to the finish required by the church warden. The floor was, at one point in its history, covered in carpet which had been taken up, no doubt exposing many years’ worth of muck.

This was left to dwell for a short period to seep into the tile, before being scrubbed in to remove the initial layers of muck. Barry was very quick to respond to our enquiry and over the course of a week he did a brilliant job on our tiles.

Restoring Old Quarry Tiles In A Reading Basement Tiling Information About Tiling by tile-cleaning.guide

The tiles were in basement of the house and over the years the tiles had suffered from water damage due to various small floods, they were now heavily soiled and the most challenging task would be to remove a large build up of mortar and cement. I then rinsed off the now soiled cleaning solution off using a hot water truck mounted extraction system. Victorian cellar tiles, the before and after photos accurately show the difference the work has made!

The solution was left to soak in before ten minutes before being agitated with a black scrubbing pad fitted to a rotary machine. Dennis’s communication and responsiveness to our needs with the work”.

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