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The bracket should be in line with the wall stud and away from the wall about the same distance from the wall as the counter is from the wall. He enjoys the remodeling projects he tackles on our home – he would love to have a job working as a handyman. I think part of it is the bad job that the builder did putting my condo together and the materials they used. I used the molding on the counter (glued it with contractor adhesive (that you put in a caulking gun) and secured the molding (after trimming) to the counter.Polycrylic (to prevent absorption of water and warping of the wood).

He enjoys giving advice to customers to help solve their problems. I have the same problem with one of my counters that had moved away from the wall. I then put the same moulding about 10 inches up on the wall creating the “frame”.

ASK THE INSPECTOR: Gap In Kitchen Backsplash Can Have Several Causes by

The most common reason for a gap like this is improper installation.

Caulking Gaps A Homeowner How To | Duration 1 Minutes 59 Seconds

The majority of modern kitchen cabinets are made in modular fashion from some form of particleboard or fibreboard. Once assembled and connected, normally with short wood screws, the base units must be levelled and squared before fastening to the walls behind. If these shims are improperly placed, or if the base cabinets are not level, plumb and square after securing to the wall, movement can occur. This is only increased by constant opening and closing of the doors and drawers. As they become loose and pull away, the countertop will move as well. Fitting and securing of the countertop, especially common post-formed laminate counters, can be a tricky task for those inexperienced with this type of finishing work. This is due to variances in individual wooden wall studs, drywall seams and other normal construction materials. Installation of a perfectly straight countertop on a crooked wall, or walls, is impossible without modification. This may involve the use of a portable jig saw, belt sander or other less-modern woodworking tools. This can also be true of granite, stone or cultured-stone counters, but on-site modifications are much more difficult. While it’s unusual for most countertop materials to shrink noticeably, some cabinets or wooden shims may get slightly smaller as they age.

A more likely scenario is shrinkage or movement in the floor or wall framing in the kitchen area. In typical two by ten joists, this can be as great as three or four millimetres. This type of movement is very common in our area, due to our expansive clay soils, which may be the problem if your home is older but has a newer countertop. The solution to that issue is slow, careful adjustment of your teleposts, to try and return the floor structure to near the original position. Whether the space behind your kitchen countertop is caused by poor installation or movement in the floor or cabinets, filling a gap as large as yours prior to repairs will not be fruitful. The repair will likely involve shimming and re-securing the base cabinets, and possibly the countertop itself, which may be critical to preventing a quick return of the void. It has pulled away on the two exterior walls and a smaller interior wall to about a quarter of an inch. There are a few reasons that this may be happening, and identifying which one is causing your problem is the key to determining the type of repair you should do. This may simply be poor securing and caulking of the counter itself, but it’s just as likely an issue with leveling and fastening of the base cabinets below. That means that a row of base cabinets is actually several individual units secured together. The simplest way to level base cabinets is with thin wooden shims inserted at the bottom of the cabinet gable ends and at the back of the cabinets. Since kitchen cabinets support a variable load, both on the countertop and in the shelves and drawers, some movement can occur. If the cabinets are not held in place with the proper number and length of fasteners, they can pull away from the wall.

If this is the situation in your home, re-levelling and squaring the base units before installation of additional fasteners will be required before dealing with the gap behind the countertop. As we all know, walls in homes are never perfectly straight, square or plumb. Particularly in older homes with plaster walls, there can be considerable bowing or waviness in the kitchen walls. It’s much easier to trim the backsplash on the countertop to fit the wall that the other way around. The other possibility for the gap behind the backsplash is due to shrinkage in building materials in the kitchen. This can cause small gaps in some areas, but not normally as large as yours. That much reduction in the size of the joists can cause the base of the cabinet to drop, while the back remains relatively well secured to the wall studs behind. The last couple of summers have been very dry, creating above-average settlement and movement in many homes. In that case, you would not want to fill the gap at the backsplash, as it could be used as a guide to determine if adjustments are working. Determining the exact cause for the movement of the counter before proceeding will be necessary. Once things are brought closer together, a simple bead of silicone caulking should do the trick to prevent water or debris falling behind the backsplash.

How To Install A Laminate Countertop Or Breakfast Bar On A Wall Cut Out Part I | Duration 5 Minutes 39 Seconds

Any Advice Or Opinions As To What Is Causing Countertop Separating From by

In my experience, when a backsplash separates from a wall, it is usually the caulking that has shrunk and exposed a gap between the two that has existed since the counter tops were first installed. That can cause a gap between the wall and the backsplash to open up, which in turn separates the bead of caulking that was hiding the gap in the first place. The fact that you are experiencing the same problem in the master bathroom is very odd as well, and unfortunately without knowing the floor plan of your house, it is difficult for me to connect the two problems with a common culprit. I am remodeling my bathroom and am installing a vanity with granite countertops.

We think it is from the drywall swelling during the winter from (what we suspect) is a lack of moisture barrier as this wall it also an exterior wall. It too has an intregal backsplash pulling away from the drywall which swells during the winter, and is an exterior wall. Although drywall can swell when it gets wet, it doesn’t often shrink noticeably when it dries, and you might expect a shrinking (or similar type of movement) to cause a backsplash to separate from a wall.

How To Remove A Kitchen Countertop | Duration 1 Minutes 30 Seconds

You are correct in assuming that a new bead of caulking is your best cosmetic fix at this point. A thorough inspection of the walls and floor can help determine if this is a structural problem, and if so, how best to fix it.

Countertop Separation by

Wipe the surfaces dry and run a strip of painter’s tape along each side of the gap to prevent new caulk from smearing on the laminate. At the back, just under the countertop, you’ll find a mounting rail or corner brackets with screws that hold the countertop in place. Stuff a foam backer rod into the joint between the countertop and the backsplash, then cover the rod with an acrylic caulk. Next, push some wood shims between the the underside of the countertop and the mounting rail or the top edge of the cabinet. First, cut every bit of old caulk out of the joint with a utility knife and scrub both sides clean with an abrasive pad and dish soap. When you’ve reduced the gap to about 1/8 inch, re-attach the screws, but don’t tighten them all the way-they just need to be snug.

Repairing A Cabinet That Is Coming Apart From The Wall by

Insert the tip of a putty knife between any cracks, loose joints or separations.Place your hands against the cabinet and force it back as hard as possible to get it up against the wall. Tap the bottom of the studs forward with a hammer so that they pry the cabinet up in the front, tightening the cabinet back against the wall. Drill through the front of the cabinet wherever you placed glue in a loose joint, separation or crack. Inject a drop of glue into each countersink hole and tap a 1/2-inch wood plug into it with a hammer until it bottoms out. There should be a wooden rail across the top of the cabinet in back. Using the cordless gun, drive one screw on both sides of the existing screws.

How To Install A Half Wall Countertop Bar With Backer Boards | Duration 3 Minutes 43 Seconds

Typically, cabinets are hung on the wall by screwing into studs behind the wall. When weight is placed in the cabinet, it begins to come apart or pull away from the wall. If the installer misses the stud or only hits the edge, the cabinet’s integrity is compromised. If this happens, it should be attended to before that baby comes crashing down, cradle and all. Scrape out any residual dried glue, debris, loose knots or chips of wood. Hold it there with one hand and measure the distance between the bottom of the cabinet and the top of the countertop. Add 1/2 inch to the measurement and cut two studs to that length on a miter saw. Place the studs slanted vertically under the front of the cabinet. Drill through the sides, into shelves, wherever possible to reinforce the joints. Place 1 1/2-inch screws in the holes and drive them down tight with the cordless gun. Lean into the cabinet and locate where the installation screws are. When you have located the studs by driving screws into them, the cabinet will stay in place. Sand the end of the plug lightly with 120-grit sandpaper and color it with a matching stain marker.If you’re working on a base cabinet, skip the prop installation and continue on with the gluing and placement of screws.

My Kitchen Counter Top Moves Away From The Wall. by

Even more interesting is the fact that we never had this problem when we build houses with 2×4 studs.

Your house is 14 years old, although most of our problems are with new homes and wet studs. What is happening is excess moisture in the wall is migrating to the cold edge of the 2×6 and causing just that side of the 2×6 to swell, creating a bow in the wall. In the summer, the moisture equalises out, and the bow disappears. This is sometimes caused by moisture from a laundry room below finding a hole to let the moisture up into the wall. The caulking between the drywall and the back splash stretches, and in some cases tears — sometimes as much as 3/16″. Actually the counters are not pulling away from the wall, the wall is bowing away from the counters. Because of the insulation, the indoor edge of the 2×6 is warm, and the outside edge of the 2×6 is freezing cold. But if the wood is wet, that moisture will be drawn to the cold side and out comes the bow. Check the outside of the house for water penetration in this area, and check under the sink and anywhere else in this area for holes leading to the stud cavity. Block the moisture movement, and you will stop the wall movement.

Reclaimed Marble Slabs For Our Kitchen Countertops. -AND Another Grand Piano *Video* by

I am someone who is comfortable with the possibility of having a piano in every room. I was wondering what you were going to use for the counters and this is perfect. The lesson here, clearly, is to always chat up the person giving things away. The guy gestured to them and said how he was going to have to pay someone to cut them up to get them downstairs. There is something deeply uncomfortable to me to be in someone’s home, taking something from them, in the most vigorous, potentially-stair-destroying way possible.

Time Lapse Of My Kitchen Wall Coming Down | Duration 2 Minutes 29 Seconds

Of these three slabs, the one we will use for the kitchen island is the quietest. Have you ever seen the guts of a piano used for a table with a glass top?

Craigslist never has anything so fantastic for free – just furniture that has been left out in the rain for 3 weeks, or something like that. Because they probably have even more wonders and they don’t even know.

Unique Or Unusual House Features by

Even a small one on one side of the living room would be pretty nice. Before you even begin planning your house, you need to discuss the electronics if you really want to make an impact. Second question is how much are you willing to spend to do this right?

Third, how do you plan to access your control scheme?

Fourth, and most important, what systems and technology do you actually want?

Are you going to go with integrated temperature controls?

Also, having some unique, cost efficient features might be a way to speed up sales of these spec properties in the future. His countertop was made of this rock with fossils in it-mostly fish, plants, and mollusks. Trust me from experience, it sucks trying to match different wood types, looks/sounds slick if it’s custom built to match. Indoor pool is very high maintenance, nevermind expensive comparing to an outdoor one. Just leave an area big enough for people to convert into something like that if they want to. Rigorous, iterative process with over 2, 300 clients over 10 years. Though that’s admittedly something that’s not universally useful to everyone.

You could even look into further smartphone integration (eg blinds, garage doors, pool controls). Of course one needs a decent size backyard for this to work.

You don’t notice them until you actually walk up to use them or are actively looking for them. If you are going automation, don’t skimp on the home theater. The electronics is cool, but that’ll be dated in about 5-10 years. Men are so simple and so much inclined to obey immediate needs that a deceiver will never lack victims for his deceptions. Yes, certain rooms like the theater would be a bit more dated than other parts of the house a bit sooner, but you are still talking about being able to produce a high quality home theater experience that will not be easily replicated even after 20 years if it’s well maintained. Pretty awesome and completely suited to him, not just some huge look-at-me expensive item.This house has one of the greatest man caves in history, and that counts prehistoric kindergarten. Wine cellar that is big enough to have a couple people hangout in and have a table for wine tasting and cheese and crackers. I think a large entertaining room that can have a wet bar in the corner some sort of area for a pool table/poker table and then some seating with multiple tv so you can have the guys over and watch a couple different games, etc. For example, if you have brazilian walnut floors – accessorize with custom brazilian walnut stools, made on site to match the flooring. Entertainment center with surround sound built into the walls?

If ever the pleasure of one has to be bought by the pain of the other, there better be no trade at all.

You can’t just stick it anywhere, gotta humidity and pressure control the room, etc etc. Sauna and steam room on the other hand are fairly cheap and easy to install and you would be able to recoup that investment easily, plus even people that don’t care for it would be ok with having it and using it as a selling point down the line, and it’s also fairly low maintenance. Basketball court – upper middle class is probably more of a tennis court.

Find and Repair Hidden Plumbing Leaks by

If water seeps out from behind the frame, caulk the frame on the inside. Splash leaks are simply water escaping past a shower curtain or a shower door.

Day 2 Removing Old Kitchen | Duration 2 Minutes 39 Seconds

Although it may sound minor, this leak causes major damage when water seeps into the subfloor where flooring meets the tub or shower. Even worse, the plywood subfloor delaminates and rots, requiring a huge, expensive tearout and replacement project. Peeling paint or flaking, chalky-looking wood finish near the shower. If the door has rubber gaskets or a rubber door sweep, check them for gaps. If you have a shower curtain rather than a door, make sure you close it completely when you shower, or add a splash guard. Force the caulk into any gaps between the frame and the shower surround. Bring the old one to a home center or plumbing supply store and look for a matching replacement. This is especially common with plastic or fiberglass tubs and shower pans, since these materials flex slightly when you stand on them, often breaking the seal around the drain. In the case of a tub set on a concrete slab, the leak will ruin flooring in the bathroom or adjoining rooms. Loose flooring near the tub or damp floors in adjoining rooms (if the tub is on a concrete slab). In a shower, plug the drain with a rag and then release the water. If you don’t have access to the underside of the drain, plug the drain and add enough water to form a small puddle around the drain (photo). Also remove the rubber gasket that’s under the tub’s drain hole and take it to a home center to find a matching gasket. If you have access to a shower drain from below, tighten the ring nut that locks the drain to the shower pan. If the shower is against an exterior wall, you may find an area of peeling paint outside. If you have loose tile behind the tub spout or faucet, open the access panel behind the faucet and look for dampness or stains. If the surface behind the tile is still solid, you can reattach tiles, regrout and recaulk. If the flange or bolt slots are broken, install a metal repair flange. Sink rim leaks allow water to seep under the rim or the base of the faucet. Dribble water around the sink rim and look for leaks (photo).If the sink rim is caulked, scrape away the old caulk and recaulk. But the most common leaks happen at the sink rim, shutoff valves, supply line connections and slip joints in the waste lines. Supply leaks under the kitchen sink or bath vanity can go unnoticed for a long time since they’re usually at the back of the cabinet. For other leaks at the shutoff valve or at the faucet, try tightening the compression nut first. For a leak from the basket strainer, tighten the ring nut under the sink. Reassemble it using plumber’s putty as a sealant under the basket’s rim. Otherwise the hose may eventually burst, releasing a continuous flow of water.But if you suspect a leak in the water supply system, there’s a simple way to check it— even if the pipes are hidden inside walls. If you have drippy faucets or a toilet that runs between flushes, close the shutoff valves. Plumbers tell us it’s the most common type of bathroom leak. If you use a curtain, look for standing water on the floor after you shower. Leaks around the frame may take five minutes or longer to show up. Also check for any gaps in the caulk where the shower or tub meets the flooring.

Seal a leaking frame by running a small bead of caulk around the inside of the frame. If the old caulk along the floor shows gaps, scrape it out and run a new bead. I pushed on it and it crunched down into the underlayment, which was totally rotten. Drain leaks allow water to sneak around the outside of the drain where it’s connected to the tub or shower. These leaks can stain or destroy the ceiling below or rot floor joists. Check the drains and traps for leaks from below through the access panel. Slip the new gasket into place and screw in the drain flange. If more than a few tiles are loose or if the wall is spongy, you’ll have to install new backer board and tile, or a fiberglass surround. These leaks occur where the toilet meets the waste pipe below. This movement will eventually break the wax seal between the toilet and the closet flange. If the stain is near the toilet, a leaking flange is the most likely source. If the flange is too low, install a plastic flange riser over the existing flange. If the toilet rocks because the floor is uneven, slip toilet shims under the toilet when you reinstall it. They will gradually destroy your cabinets and countertops in kitchens and bathrooms.

Tighten the clips under the sink rim that clamp the sink to the countertop. I stuck my head under the sink and saw that the particleboard under the sink rim was black and swollen. Water can run down the pipes into the floor or subfloor, rotting the sink base, the floor and the framing. Hidden behind boxes and bottles, these leaks can damage flooring, cabinets and even ceilings below before you notice them. Run and drain the dishwasher and check the waste hose connection. If the leak continues, disconnect and remove the basket strainer. If not, the tank is leaking and you need a new water heater. Tank leaks often start slow and then suddenly burst days or weeks later, causing a major household flood. If you notice a tiny leak in the hose itself or at the crimped metal fittings at the ends, replace the hose. Then go to your water meter and check the position of the “1-cubic-foot” dial.

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