Knowing how to clean marble floors and granite floors is important. There are so many reasons to choose marble or granite flooring for your home. If you’ve ever wanted to know how to clean granite or marble floors, then read on! First, you need to know how to spot clean the floor to remove any obvious dirt or scuff marks.
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As tempting as it is, don’t scrub in a circular motion, as you could damage the floor. Using a soft, clean mop, wipe the floors using short and gentle strokes. Using a dry, clean, microfibre cloth, buff the floor to bring up the shine. Anything that’s either very acid or very alkaline – vinegar, for example. Vacuum cleaners, as the wheels and hoses can scratch the materials. Try placing a floor mat at the entrance to your granite floors to catch dirt, dust, and small stones stuck into the soles of shoes before they can damage your floor.
Consider applying a marble or granite sealer onto the floor to add a protective barrier and limit the amount of damage that can be done to the floor. Acidic liquids like orange juice or vinegar can be particularly troublesome.
Find out useful info on the best marble cleaners & cleaning techniques. This solution is mild enough that it can treat your granite or marble floors with the special care they need, as well as help remove tough dirt at the same time. The materials are truly stunning, they can transform any room – particularly bathrooms – into amazing spaces, and they’re very hard and durable, so they’ll last years and years. You do need to pay a little extra attention to marble and granite, but it’s simple, and it’s well worth taking the time to keep your floors in top condition. Gently rub the stain or scuff in the direction of the grain in straight lines. Once the stain or mark has disappeared, buff with a dry cloth to dry the area and bring up the shine. Never let marble or granite dry naturally, as this will cause water marks to form. As granite and marble are natural materials, there are also some items that shouldn’t be used due to a risk of damage and scratching. Always ensure that any items you place on the floor, like plant pots, are put on a rubber mat so that there’s no direct contact between the marble or granite and a hard material that could cause damage.
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Blot (rather than wipe) any spills with a cloth, before washing with a little dishwashing liquid and a liberal dose of water.
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Cleaning chemicals you use on other surfaces and areas throughout your home not only won’t clean marble, but they also can actually damage it. Using these products can corrode the marble surface, eating away at the natural shine and leaving behind dull spots or discoloration.
Taking care not to leave acidic foods and drinks on your countertops, or not using the wrong cleaning products, can help save your marble. And no matter how often you instruct your cleaning crew about properly caring for your marble, invariably there will be a new person on the crew who doesn’t know any better.
The easiest way to prevent etching is to be careful about what you allow to touch your marble surfaces.
Maintenance Cleaning For Natural Stone by marbleandgranite.com
Be careful with common foods and drinks contain acids that may etch or dull the stone surface. To achieve the darker look (deep charcoal-black), all that is needed is mineral oil, which you can purchase at your local drugstore or supermarket. The darker color will help to hide minor scratches that typically occur with normal use. Sand, dirt and grit do the most damage to natural stone surfaces due to their abrasiveness. In addition, be careful when using a vacuum cleaner as the metal or plastic attachments or wheels may scratch the surface.
Keep off floor until completely dry, as wet stone floors may be slippery. In the bath, or other wet areas, using a squeegee after each use can minimize soap scum and hard water deposit buildup. Professional refinishing is the best way to permanently remove etch marks and restore your natural stone’s even finish.
A poultice will wick up the stain from deep within the stone.
Just rub it into the stone and remove any excess that sits on the surface, repeating this process several times until you reach the level of darkness desired. Mats or area rugs inside and outside an entrance will help to minimize the potential damage from these particles. A quick response and the right solutions can keep spills from damaging your stone or degrading the sealer. Sealing allows you time to wipe up a spill, but it cannot stop the chemical reaction that may leave a dull mark. These may etch away the polish, discolor the surface, scratch the stone or degrade the sealer. Spray the area with a neutral stone cleaner and wipe off excess with a clean cloth.
Care Cleaning by venetianmarbleinc.com
When cleaning cultured marble, use only non-abrasive cleansers with a soft cloth or sponge.
After cleaning the cultured marble, apply the wax just like you would on furniture. Wax can be applied to all surfaces except shower bases and tub floors as this will make the “walking” surfaces slippery. Allow to dry and buff off with a clean cloth just as you would your car. This will remove the small scratches and apply a protective layer of wax to the surface of the marble. New products take a few months to completely cure, and during this time they need to “breathe”.
Do not use any cleaners with abrasive particles as this will damage the gel coat finish.
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Pledge) can enhance the shine of your cultured marble and make weekly cleaning much easier.
This will apply a thin layer of wax to the surface of the marble, make water roll off easily and keep dirt from accumulating on the surface. If small scratches should appear on your cultured marble after use, you can remove them by applying buffing compound. Purchase a compound which is light in color- it will contain the lightest abrasives; apply to clean cultured marble with a clean cloth. Then apply a hard paste wax, such as bowling alley wax or car paste wax.
Discoloration or “yellowing” can occur when fresh air cannot reach the cultured marble surface.
Cleaning Marble by vam.ac.uk
It highlights common problems, tells you what to avoid and provides practical, step-by-step instructions on how to clean and preserve marble and similar materials. If in doubt, do not clean because the materials discussed below are not necessarily appropriate for imitation marble. Look for evidence of a coating and traces of original paint or gilding. This gives it a dense crystalline structure that makes a polished surface possible. These variations are a result of mineral impurities in the original limestone. In the home, marble is used for used for fireplaces and flooring due to its strength and durability. When these factors are combined with poor handling or internal weakness, the marble is liable to break. This may be as simple as a bust on a socle (a separate base or plinth), as complex as a large sculpture where arms and legs have been jointed on a torso, or a result of past repairs that have been dowelled into place. Veining, for example, gives a decorative effect but can also be a source of weakness in the stone.
Lemon juice, vinegar and wine can etch the surface and remove the polish. There is a list of other types of stone and artificial stone, and how to clean them, at the bottom of this article. It is very important to read the instructions and hazard labels before you use these. To ensure safe handling of solvents, decant small quantities for use into glass or ceramic containers – this prevents contaminating your bulk supply. This will need to be shaken regularly to maintain the mixture as an emulsion. The degree of porosity of marble is dependent on the condition of the surface.
Detergents tend to leave a residue behind on the surface which can increase the rate of resoiling and may affect the surface in other ways in the long term.
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Groomstick around the end of a bamboo stick and roll it lightly over the surface. Pyrites are small crystals of iron sulphide which look like small black spots and create an impurity within the marble.
In the past, some sculptors picked the pyrites out and filled the resultant pinhole with wax.
If your marble has an all-over dark yellow-brown or orange staining this might be the result of previous treatments where a combination of linseed oil and beeswax was applied as a polish, permeating the structure and, over time, forming an oxalate skin which invariably discolours the crystalline structure. Stain removal without risking damage to the marble surface requires skill and experience. They will also be able to minimise the risk of spreading the stain and making it worse. Polishing with abrasives may increase the sheen, but also removes the surface of the marble, damaging pieces of historical or monetary value. They often rely on a strong alkali which will affect the surface of the marble itself rather than just removing dirt – the longer it is left on, the more likely it will damage the marble surface. The mixture was applied with a brush, left on the marble for several days and then wiped off. Using milk is never appropriate because the residues that will inevitably be left behind are acidic in themselves, will encourage mould growth and attract dirt. Each stage reduces the roughness of the surface by abrading it away until the surface is smooth and glossy. This is not an appropriate treatment for sculpture, decorative art or original historical surfaces – consult a conservator for best advice. Like marble, it is a metamorphic rock, but is mainly composed of hydrated calcium sulphate.
Heat drives out the water from within the crystal structure and it cannot be reintroduced. If there are no traces of applied decoration, you can dust with a soft brush or clean dry cloth. If your test is successful, you should be able to clean with white spirit. The wax-resin mixture will be damaged if it is exposed to a wide range of solvents, such as white spirit and alcohol.
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If this is not does not work, use a cotton swab slightly dampened with water. Porphyry can be red (with white spots), green (with darker green and grey spots) or grey (with green and grey spots) – the grey tends to be noticeably softer. Porphyry is an unusual stone and is therefore sometimes mistaken for marble or ceramic.
First decide if your marble has historical, aesthetic or sentimental value and whether you wish to pass it on to future generations. Examine your piece in good light to establish if there are any potential problems. It is formed from limestone that has gone through a process of recrystallisation through heat or pressure. Marble can vary in colour from the whites and creams of classical sculpture to pinks, greens, greys, browns and yellows.
Whilst smaller objects may be made in a single piece, it is not uncommon for statuary to be made in multiple pieces. While marble is often perceived as hard wearing and durable, the same properties that make it attractive can also contribute to its vulnerability.
Marble can also be damaged if it is exposed to acids and strong alkalis. There are very many materials that can be confused with marble, so it is important to ensure what your piece is made of before attempting to clean it. Once you have ascertained that the object you want to clean is marble, there are two ways you can proceed: liquid cleaning or dry cleaning. For stubborn areas, an equal mixture of water and white spirit with up to 2% non-ionic detergent added may be useful. This will also help avoid obtrusive runs and drips that can then be difficult to remove. Highly polished marble is comparatively non-porous whilst marble that has weathered or been abraded is more porous. If you use a detergent in a cleaning mixture, it is important to wipe over the surface thoroughly a second time using swabs slightly dampened with water.
In moist conditions they can corrode and cause small orange, brown or pinkish areas of iron staining.
This wax can be lost if the marble is cleaned with white spirit. A stone conservator may be able to reduce or remove some stains by poulticing. All proprietary cleaners of this type can damage marble, and can ‘skin’ the surface, which will then be visible as dull patches. One 19th-century remedy suggests that discoloured marble should be treated using a mixture of equal parts of soft soap, quick lime and caustic potash.
The same source recommended polishing using a mixture of soda, pumice and chalk, or simply using milk. Traditional cleaners containing vinegar or lemon juice can have a similar unwanted effect. Marble is polished with a succession of ever finer abrasives, using water as a lubricant. It has been used for lampshades, sculptures and other decorative objects. The effect is an irreversible loss of translucency and the alabaster takes on a dull opaque appearance. Onyx ‘marbles’ have sometimes been called alabaster because they have a similar appearance but they are actually polishable limestone which is more durable than alabaster.
If you find any, dust around them without touching them – leave them for a specialist to treat. Alternatively, wipe the surface gently with a cotton bud slightly dampened with white spirit. Limestones are composed mainly of calcite or dolomite, with a variety of other minerals. Polishable limestone can have bands of different sedimentation within the stone that may result in areas that are softer, more porous and more easily eroded. If you see any, stop cleaning and refer your piece to a specialist.
The mixture is applied to a support in a marbleised pattern and sometimes includes chips of marble. Scagliola was often employed for plinths, columns and pilasters but was also used for table tops, floors and wall and door panels. Scagliola is comparatively soft and can be damaged by knocks and bumps, and also by moisture. If this is unsuccessful, test a small unobtrusive area with a swab dampened with white spirit, but if you see anything other than black dirt on the swab, stop immediately and consult a conservator. In the first method, pre-cut slices of coloured stone are laid into a stone ground of marble or slate, which has had matching recesses cut into it.
As this mixture ages, weak or loose areas may develop and the stone pieces may crack. Damaged pietre dure is best treated by a specialist conservator due to its complex construction.