The piece is very heavy and solid, so it’s a nice piece of furniture despite it being covered in laminate. If your laminate piece is one that can be easily taken apart, go ahead and do that. With a 220 grit sandpaper, sand every square inch that you will be painting. Sand until you start to see little white flecks on the furniture and the shine of the laminate is removed. You’ll want to make sure you remove all of the sanding dust so that it won’t ruin your paint job.It is formulated for all types of projects, including laminate.

I chose an interior eggshell sheen for my paint, which is in between flat and semi-gloss.

We definitely scratched up the interior of the piece when we were putting the shelving back in since they are a very tight fit. It needs some work to look good but it is totally cute with a little heart cut-out and will be perfect for my 6 year old daughter. After each time you sand the piece wipe it down w/ a tack cloth. When latex paint is dry, apply a few coats of clear-drying latex polyurethane, making sure each coat dries before adding the next one.

Rust Oleum Countertop Coating Review And How To $20 Diy Countertops | Duration 3 Minutes 40 Seconds

Otherwise the paint will scratch off anytime something bumps into it. Thanks for taking the time to post about what you did!

I am going to paint a tacky laminate dresser to put in my basement/family room to hold towels and linens. I noticed the sides and tops are laminate but the drawer fronts are wood. Thats a long time for my dressers to be in the garage!

I couldn’t find a single tutorial out there to tell me how to paint laminate furniture. I started with a light wood laminate armoire from my son’s playroom. If you can’t take your piece apart, at least try to remove any doors, drawers and shelves. Be careful not to sand down to the plywood or other pressed wood that is underneath the laminate. Next, take a tack cloth and wipe down the pieces you sanded. I used a foam roller to paint the large pieces and then used a 2-inch foam brush to paint the edges and hard to reach areas.

Zinsser recommends 7 days; other brands may recommend a different length of time. If you wait the recommended amount of time, your paint job won’t scratch easily. Now it’s time to sit back and enjoy your “new” piece of furniture!

Or, are you still scared to paint your laminate furniture?

I knew it could be done, but it’s nice to see it step-by-step. My husband also brought home a headboard recently that has a laminate covering. I painted most of it then moved some more furniture and discovered some water damage. I have painted lots of laminate and that is the way to do it. I want to do a couple of laminated dressers and needed just this to show me how!

Here’s some directions out of one of my painting books on painting laminate. Allow each coat to dry and lightly sand before applying next coat. If you’re painting something you want to keep around for a while it’s worth the time to put into doing it right. With the sanding do your instructions mean to use a palm sander also?

Is ther any way, short of a sprayer, to get a really nice, professional-smooth finish?

2019 Window Replacement Cost Guide For Home Owners by

The replacement window is inserted into the pocket space left by the old sashes, and it is secured to the side jambs. Because the window fits into an existing window frame, there is more framing and slightly less window pane than with full-frame windows. Full-frame windows: these are also called new construction windows. Sash kits are brand-specific, so they’re used when replacing a damaged window rather than a house full of old windows. For example, a bay window might include a large fixed window with 1 or 2 smaller fixed or moving windows on either side. Every window opening is measured, and a window is built to fit it perfectly. Before we move to replacement window installation cost, here are three simple factors that will determine window replacement prices. Installing new windows primarily to reduce energy use isn’t a cost-effective solution. It only makes financial sense to replace windows when they are beyond their useful life due to broken seals, rotted frames or widespread repair needs.

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Only the lower sash moves, so they provide less ventilation. Partially lowering the upper sash allows warm air from the room to escape. Casement windows shouldn’t be installed where they can be a hazard when open, such as over a patio or deck. A version of the awning window is the bin window that opens in from the top. This makes it possible to put together a window package with several types of windows. They are very energy-inefficient because heat transfers through aluminum easily. With time, bare aluminum develops a patina that some feel mars its appearance. Color choice is limited to white, off-white, almond and similar light colors. Fiberglass is very strong and low-maintenance, usually a blend of fiberglass fibers and bonding resin. Hardware for vinyl and fiberglass windows is usually coated. The contractors are licensed, insured and pre-screened, and they know they are competing for the work. If the original window frame is in good condition, it can remain. They have a nailing fin around the perimeter used to secure them to the house from the outside of the home before the nailing fin is covered by siding and trim. Sash kits are made for a very limited number of window brands and series. Pre-made windows are built in a limited number of standard sizes and options. They are made in standard sizes, usually in 1/8” to 1/2” increments. The more expensive the series, the more options and accessories are offered. Fully custom windows are mostly used for old homes with non-standard or imprecise window openings. When they are options, adding extras will raise the cost of the window.It will take 25-40 years in lower energy costs to pay for new windows. Of course, choosing to replace windows because you’re updating your home and/or prefer a different style is a matter of personal choice. Both single- and double-hung windows can be hard to raise when you must reach over a countertop. Partially raising the lower sash allows cool outside air to enter. As with single-hung windows, the sash frames obstruct your view out the window. Screens are on the inside, so they’re not damaged by the elements, but they can get dusty and must be vacuumed periodically.

Spreadstone™ Countertop Finishing Kit Instructional Video | Duration 14 Minutes 16 Seconds

It’s common, for example, to install casement or double-hung windows on either side of a large picture/fixed window or awning windows beneath fixed windows. They cause a home to lose heat in winter and gain heat in summer. The problem with non-clad wood exteriors is susceptibility to moisture that causes warping, fading and rot. Here’s a broad overview of window extras, options and accessories. The coating reflects heat and is applied to the inside, outside or both sides of the glass. Metal finishes are popular for wood windows including chrome, satin and polished nickel, oil-rubbed bronze and polished and antique brass. True-divided light and simulated divided light grilles are made in a wide range of styles.

We recommend getting several written estimates for your project, whether they are for the same or different brands. Use the form to answer a few questions about your project, and you’ll receive written estimates from several of the top installers in your area.

Kate’S DIY Project: Valspar Brushed Pearl Paint by

I did this as a time-saver not because it was difficult since the first coat is essentially the same as if you were simply painting any room. Then reposition your tape onto the dried walls and paint the remaining two walls. Troweling over the surface is the second step of applying this layer.Adding the sealer did not change the look and in fact may have actually added to the luster. I think that even someone doing faux finish for the first time would have success with this technique. Were mine tinted opposite what they should have been?

I think it is more important to have the motion be comfortable and feel natural rather than trying to achieve a stroke that is awkward. Is it a satin base of the same number then the top coat is the brushed pearl tinted the same?

What produces the effect is the top coat but of course having the right color and finish underneath is critical to the end result. And is this finish easy to paint over in the future?

When using the trowel how far apart do you use the 12 to 18″ stroke?

I originally painted both my walls and ceiling in this color with the intention of leaving the ceiling with just the base color and not putting on the top coat. Plus when you get into changing formulas you won’t really have a good idea as to whether or not it is right until you try it. Do you think my problem is using it on a wooden surface?

I do think however that it might be difficult to produce the same results as on the wall. I used the plastic trowel flat against the surface of the wall after the pearl coat had dried slightly.

You don’t want it to be too small because then the look in the small sections would be different than the rest of the room. I think this would work better than the brush but you could try that also. I think it you experiment you’ll find a way to achieve the look in those tight spaces and if you aren’t happy with the results at least it isn’t on the walls. There are also many interesting paint finishes now for concrete that may also work on the plywood and a good dealer should be able to help you there too. I just received some pictures from another reader that used this product with great success and will be posting hem this week. I have not been able to see a decent photograph of this finish as most examples have their camera’s flash turned on and it looks too overexposed to get a realistic idea of what it is really supposed to look like.

Rust Oleum Cabinet And Countertop Transformation Kits | Duration 6 Minutes 18 Seconds

This is what seemed to be a natural and loose movement for me. I believe that this is the same paint as you would purchase if you simply wanted an interior satin. I don’t recall there being another option but it doesn’t seem to me that a metal trowel would work as well with this process. Could it be rolled and then troweled and get similar effect?

I don’t think you would get the same nice effect with a roller but you could try it on a test sample board first and see. I didn’t use a very exacting pattern put rather let the strokes overlap at random. I used a slightly lighter touch as it was a bit more dry but in the end it all blended beautifully. If you haven’t used it yet and it was pre-mixed rather than custom mixed you could probably exchange it for this product if that is what you had intended to buy.

You could do it but you might lose some of the effect. Lowes gal but in this case having a salesperson to work with you that really knows the product and how to custom mix paint could be helpful. I am trying to use it on a wooden cabinet, and it looks terrible, as though someone stuck their hands in the wet pearl. If your cabinet has any trim or areas that are difficult to paint around it would take great patience to paint areas, let them dry and cover so that you could paint the adjoining areas without messing up those areas that you were satisfied with.

You may also find something else that would work at a kitchen or hardware store. Maybe using a foam brush rather than a regular brush might work.

Ghostshield Concrete Sealers Water Oil and Salt Repellent Ghostshield® by

It also transports salt and other materials that damage concrete from within. One gallon makes five gallons, equating to 80% less packaging, 50% less transportation cost and 80% less empty container waste. Answer questions about your specific application for a product recommendation.

We like to think of it as concrete sealer innovation with a conscience. Nanotechnology is the manipulation of matter at this tiny scale.

Sealing Marble Shower Tile and Grout by

Some claim it’s a must do while others say sealing showers doesn’t really serve much purpose and may cause a problem in some cases. It depends on the stone, the location and intended use of the stone installation. Applying a sealer is done to reduce the risk of stains in marble or stone. The risk of staining in marble showers is near zero unless you regularly toss a salad or drink some wine in there!

Some people mistakenly believe that the reason to seal shower tile is to prevent the shower water from absorbing.A little water may absorb into the marble or travertine tile while showering, but it quickly evaporates and does not cause any problems.

You don’t gain any real benefit by applying a sealer since your stain risk in a marble shower is minimal. In truth, the sealer itself won’t “cause” a problem out of nothing, so don’t worry if you’ve already sealed your marble shower. This is most often a problem on floors after a flood or from a plumbing leak. In a shower, this could sometimes occur from water behind the tiles and not simply from water absorbed while showering. Honed marble tile will absorb a bit more readily, but shiny polished marble tile has a very low rate of absorption and water may not absorb at all. Thus, any iron deposits within the tiles (unless near the surface) are not exposed to water long enough to oxidize or rust and stains rarely occur. Or applying a standard quality impregnating sealer will work too but you just have to reapply it periodically. Senguard forms permanent bonds with the stone which means you only have to seal the marble one time. Usually, the floor tiles are most affected but you may notice the wall tiles that touch the floor become darker as well. This occurs as the water from the floor rises up inside the wall tile. Obviously, it would be absolutely useless to attempt to apply a sealer to a stone that can’t absorb it and doesn’t need a sealer. Waiting 2-3 weeks after shower installation is necessary before applying a sealer to allow the stone, grout and all installation materials to dry out completely or you’ll trap water in the stone. No need to polish marble prior to sealing unless you are repairing etch marks. Instead of tearing out all the marble installed we are considering aborting the steam component all together. Everyone thinks marble is “stains” easily and is super porous. Marble “etches” easily which is a chemical burn from acids and many cleaners. Yes, it is porous and can stain, but not to the extreme everyone thinks. This is usually how mold issues begin in showers with or without steam. Now, if the steam shower was constantly used, then it is possible the marble tile could become saturated.

You should apply a quality sealer to white marble in the shower to prevent rust stains. Sealers are used primarily to prevent stains in the marble tile. Sealing the grout will help but it’s cracks and voids in grout that usually are responsible. How many times should we apply the sealer to our marble?

Color, pattern, and integrity of that particular marble (or granite or any natural stone) is what determines quality. And it’s probably honed marble which is more absorbent than a polished finish. Water should take even longer to absorb after the second coat. What would be the best method to apply the sealer on both areas?

Spray on and then use the paint brush to spread around if needed. Again, steam just wears more on the stone if it is heavily used and may require more frequent sealing. But if you cannot let the shower dry out before sealing, then yes consider not sealing it or seal all tiles prior to grouting. I did the water test you suggested and it’s fine everywhere else in the bathroom except the shower area where it gets absorbed.

We installed a tile in linear drain and it’s gorgeous.

We applied two coats on the shower floor area and one on the remaining floors which is also the same material. A day later the shower floor was four shades darker than the floors around it.

We stopped using the shower and waited two weeks for it to return to its normal state.

We used the shower for the first time again yesterday, and nothing has changed.

We don’t know what to do except believe this is the nature of the stone?

Water can absorb into stone and then evaporate without issue.However, marble really isn’t that porous to begin with and if it was properly sealed no water should be absorbing. The key seems that there was some delay in the stone darkening after use. If it took until the next day to see it darken, then it is likely water is absorbing through the tile from underneath. My guess is that it will take forever to absorb and darken (if it does at all). But the shower floor must be completely dry and back to normal color first. Time how long it takes to darken the stone in both locations and note any differences to give you clues to the nature and source of the problem. For instance sealing marble kitchen countertops is usually a good idea. On the other hand, some marbles, granites and other stones are naturally dense, stain-resistant and don’t need sealing. This is very helpful in areas like the kitchen, dining room, or high-use floors or countertops in a bathroom. You’d have to leave a leaky bottle of something sitting on the marble tile for it to ever have a chance of staining. However, in a case where water gets behind the tiles of a sealed shower (from cracks or voids in grout or caulk), it will block evaporation potentially making damage a lot worse. Meaning the tiles and the iron deposits must be exposed to water over an extended period of time or from a continuous source. First, marble is not that absorbent and water would have to be on the surface for quite a long time (maybe 15-30 minutes or more) before it even starts to absorb. Also, since tiles are never really submerged in water in a shower, it is typically absorbed only into the surface (if at all), doesn’t saturate the tile and dries quickly. Floors, benches and shelves are at greater risk for rust stains in white marble showers since water is left standing on these surfaces allowing more time to absorb and potentially oxidize embedded iron deposits. No periodic re-sealing is necessary as is required with all other sealers.

You can spot this problem as the shower tiles will start to turn gray or darker. What happens is the water behind the tile absorbs into the tile and darkens it. Often you’ll see that half of the wall tile is gray or darker. Dense, low-absorbency stones (like polished marble) typically do not need sealing and often “cannot” be sealed because the sealer won’t absorb. The result is wasted time, effort and money and a streaky sealer residue on the stone.

We really like this product and highly recommend it. Better to repair first, but you can always re-apply a sealer to any spots where etch marks were repaired. He may be a steam shower expert but possibly he does not know marble. Well, this myth has been created because people confuse two different issue with marble as if they are the same. People think “etching” is the same as “staining” and conclude that “marble stains easily” and therefore, must be very porous. Water will not readily pass through the marble tile itself into the wood studs and wall creating a mold issue. It would take hours of constant water exposure for the tile to become saturated with water and pass moisture out the back side into the walls. The grout lines are much more vulnerable to water penetration. Cracks in grout allow water behind the tiles and mold develops. So, it is important that the shower can effectively dry out between uses. White marble has embedded iron deposits that can rust from water exposure causing stains on the marble.

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