While you can’t remove deep scratches that go all the way through the gel coat, it is possible to restore the surface and shine using extremely fine sandpaper and polishing compounds. One fan may have the answer to another fan’s question, and we think that’s awesome. I will try picking up the product and trying it out this weekend! I bought a spray product but it doesn’t bring back the gloss in those areas.
I have completely removed the shower down to the studs and was able to get all solid surface panels out without damaging them. I really like the heavy quality of the existing material and prefer not using acrylic.
Automotive compounds are mildly abrasive materials that are used to smooth and remove blemishes from cultured marble, fiberglass, paint, or clear finishes. Automotive compounds can be applied to the surface by hand with a soft, cotton cloth, or by using felt or wool pads on a power buffer, which requires much less physical effort. Wipe off any residue from the compound with a clean, soft cloth, then wash and dry the top with water. We encourage the community to help each other when they can. It left stains from the blast of spray and streaks running down the walls.
They are made of a very heany stone like substance which is highly polished on one side. I would like to locate a cast solid surface pan which incorporates the curb which would provide a better water seal and eliminate some caulking joints.
Marble Maintenance Tips by stonetechmarble.com
It is important to properly maintain your marble countertops or floors to keep your marble looking great. Marble is very sensitive to acidic substance so spills with soda, coffee, juices need to be clearned up immediately. You can also use mild soap and water to clean water however constant use will make your marble dull and fade.
There are many marble countertop and floor owners who do not know the correct way to maintain the marble so the marble may get damaged in a short amount of time. If your spill is lying out there for a long period of time, your marble will be permenantly damaged and stained. Keeping your marble floor tiles free of dust is a good start to properly maintaining your marble floors. Cleaning marble countertops will be easier if you are able to keep all liquids off and coasters are a great way to do just that. With more than 5, 000 slabs and over 200 colors, it’s easy to find the marble countertops or floor tiles you want.
Top Marble Cleaning Products by marble-concepts.com
Cleaning marble can be worrisome, especially for those new to its care.
It is safe for kitchen use and is easy to use, with no added buffing. Organic varieties are best used as they are free of additives and fragrances. Spray the mixture on the marble surface and use a white cloth to wipe the area clean.
Try to avoid general (off the shelf) cleaners that are labeled for use with marble. You can spare yourself the possibility of damage by steering clear of harsh cleaning products from the grocery or home store. If you are still unsure as to how to really clean marble, complete the online contact form and a representative will get back to you with suggestions for properly cleaning your marble.
It is essential to avoid every day, harsh cleaners, and it is equally important to look into cleaning routines and products that will clean and protect marble effectively and efficiently. It is completely safe for marble and natural stone. It can be used on marble, granite and quartz surfaces, and is safe for all natural stone surfaces. Rinsing is not required and there is no residual film, smearing streaking or buildup, plus a nice sheen remains on the surface. It is a concentrated product so little it needed when mixed with water.
Wipe it with a damp cloth and further buff it out with a chamois cloth once the area is dry. Mix about 16 ounces of water and approximately 1/8 cup of rubbing alcohol in a spray bottle. It comes down to utilizing the right products whether they are name brand or do-it-yourself.
Cleaning marble doesn’t have to be an annoyance or experiment when you use effective products.
How To Protect A Marble Countertop: 12 Steps by Wikihow.com
However, it’s easy to permanently damage marble, and tricky to it keep looking good if you aren’t sure how to protect it. However, depending on the ingredients, some will be effective and others may cause damage. Put a few drops of mineral oil or water on your counter and leave it for a few minutes (4 minutes for the water and 10 for the mineral oil). Don’t worry about the water or mineral oil leaving a spot behind; the liquid should evaporate within a half hour. Once you’ve determined that your countertop needs to be sealed, give it a good cleaning. Different manufacturers require using different application techniques and amounts of sealer, depending on the type of stone as well as the type of finish.
If you’ve never sealed you countertop before with the product you’re using, consider treating a small area and checking it 24 hours later to make sure it had a positive effect on your countertop. If you happened to apply the perfect amount of sealer, then there may not be any left for you to remove. Make sure to wait at least 15 minutes so that the first coat can completely soak in, and then apply additional coats as needed and/or specified in your sealer’s directions. Marble is especially sensitive to acidic substances such as coffee, soda, fruit juices, and many common cleaning products. If you wipe up a spill and it has already created a stain, remove the stain right then and there.
Remove an organic stain with a mixture of 12% hydrogen peroxide and a few drops of ammonia.
This will prevent etches, scratches, and burn marks from permanently scarring your marble countertop. Cover it with plastic wrap and tape down the edges with painter’s tape. Get a cover or something to put the pot on, or, if you can, opt for a granite countertop. You could do it yourself with a hand polishing machine and the right polishing pads, though you may want to call a professional marble polishing company.
Will the marble sealer spray damage my faucets if it comes in contact?
To protect your marble countertop, choose and test a sealer, apply your chosen sealer, and keep the countertop clean. Read the label carefully and make sure to go with a sealer that is an acid-resistant impregnator. Sealing your countertop is probably the best way to protect it, but before sealing it, you should make sure it needs to be sealed. If a dark spot or stain is left behind, then it’s time to seal your countertop. Clean the countertop using a clean, soft cloth, a mild soap, and warm water. Don’t clean your countertop with any harsh or acidic chemicals or products, such as bleach or lemon juice. Before applying the sealer, it’s important to read and understand the manufacturer’s directions on how to do so. Typically, the sealer label will instruct you to spray the entirety of your countertop with the sealer and then rub it in with a clean, soft cloth. If your countertop has a large surface area, you may want to treat small sections one at a time. Unless otherwise instructed, let the sealer soak in for about 5 minutes and then get a clean microfiber cloth to use to wipe up any excess.
If this is the case, do a quick counter wipe with the microfiber cloth anyway. It’s common and often beneficial to do more than one coat when applying sealer, mostly because multiple coats ensure full coverage. Your marble countertop can stain easily and quickly, but with a strong sealer always on it, you’ll have a little more time to clean up any spills and prevent staining or etching. If you want to keep your marble countertop in pristine condition, it’s vital that you wipe up any spills as soon as they happen. As soon as a liquid comes in contact with your counter, wipe it up with a paper towel, sponge, or soft cloth. Remove an oil-based stain with a soft liquid cleanser, liquid detergent, ammonia, or mineral spirits.
All of these items create a barrier between your countertop and potentially damaging substances.
Remove the plastic after 24-48 hours, let the paste dry out, and then remove it with a wooden or plastic scraper. Ideally you should clean it every week, but with kids the counter may become messier, in which case you will have to clean it more often.
Can I Repair The Damage To My Engineered Marble Counter Top? by tucson.com
I left a disinfectant-type toilet bowl cleaner on the counter and it leaked, making a circular mark about four inches in diameter on the countertop.
Using varying degrees of polishing compound, they can probably buff out that area until it gets close to its original appearance and feel. There are very obvious wet spots along the main line; soil under the rocks is saturated and muddy. The drip line that is tapped into the main, low-pressure irrigation line is not really a “water tight” connection. Maybe the drip line is not perpendicular to the main line but rather comes out at a sharper angle. That connection should be at 90 degrees to the main line; then, any necessary bends in the drip line should be made away from the connection point. I would like fiberglass blown in but keep hearing about the foam option. However, there are some things that need to be done when foaming the underside of your roof. All this makes for a more expensive alternative, but this is one investment where you will see a major return in energy savings.
That area is rough to the touch and does not have the same clear shine seen on the rest of the countertop. Just make sure that the company you select is proficient in such repairs and won’t make the issue worse. You may see a drip or two every so often, but it should not be leaking to the extent that there is a puddle or mud hole.
That could compromise the integrity of the seal at the connection to the main line. My duct system is suspended and one contractor told me the best insulation option is foam. The foam application will create a conditioned space with temperature differences of just a few degrees between the living spaces and the attic. Typically, you also have the insulation company remove all the old blown-in insulation via a large truck-mounted vacuum system.
Bathroom Cleaning Tips: Clean Granite Travertine Marble Counter Tops by uniquevanities.com
Use place mats under china, silver or other objects that can scratch the surface. This includes glass cleaners to clean mirrors over a marble vanity top or a liquid toilet bowl cleaner when the toilet sets on a marble floor. They will not offer protection to the surface of the stone, either. This will help prevent possible accidental spills of staining agents from being absorbed by the stone. With that said, however, keep in mind that a vast majority of stones marketed as granite are not true granite. Some may even develop problems related to the sealer, if sealed nonetheless.
In these instances, once the sealer is professionally removed, everything is fine. The deriving (surface) damage has no relation whatsoever with the porosity of the stone (which determines its absorbency), but is exclusively related to its chemical makeup.
For some stones that are more porous than others, one application of sealer/impregnator may not be enough. On mercantile granites that need sealing, at least two applications are recommended, with at least two hours in between applications. To find out if your stone is perfectly sealed, spill some water on it and wait for approximately half an hour, then wipe it dry. On the other hand, if bleach is spilled on that same fabric, a discoloration will occur, but it can hardly be defined as a stain because it is actually a permanent damage to the dye that originally made the color of the fabric. All other (less noble) stones are the composition of many crystals, either of the same mineral, or of different minerals bonded together. What this translates into is the fact that the absorbency of such types of stone is so marginal that (by all practical intents and purposes) can be considered irrelevant. Because of their inherent porosity, many stones will absorb liquids, and if such liquids are staining agents, a true stain will occur.
Other “discolorations” have nothing to do with the porosity (absorbency) of the stone, but rather are a result of damage to the stone surface.
Anybody with no experience whatsoever can make their own homemade poultice. Apply the poultice onto the stain, going approximately ½ over it all around, keeping it as thick as possible (at least ¼). Leave the whole thing alone for at least 24 hours, then remove the plastic wrap. Once the poultice is completely dry, scrape it off the surface of the stone with a plastic spatula, clean the area with a little squirt of stone safe spray cleaner, then wipe it dry with a clean rag or a sheet of paper-towel.
That is, it leaves a mark of corrosion that looks like a water-stain or ring. Trying to remove the “stain” by poulticing it would be useless exercise, since it is not a stain, no matter what it looks like. In fact an etch mark can be effectively compared to, and defined as, a shallow chemical scratch. You are actually facing a full-fledged, though small in size, stone restoration project! If it’s a cleft-finished slate (rippled on its surface), then nobody can actually do anything about it, other than attempt to mask it by applying a good quality stone color enhancer. In such a case, first you remove the stain by poulticing (hydrogen peroxide), and then repair the etching by refinishing the surface.
Avoid cleaning products unless the label specifies it is safe for natural stone.
Considering the light-duty cleaning that is typically necessary on a vanity top, you can generally dilute the product in a proportion of 1:1 with tap water and it will still perform flawlessly. Even if you over-spray it, nothing bad is going to happen to your marble. Contrary to what your perception may be when you hear the word sealer, sealers for stone are all below-surface products and will not alter in any way, shape or form the original finish produced by the factory. They will only go inside the stone by being absorbed by it (assuming that the stone is porous enough to allow this to happen) and will clog its pores, thus reducing its natural absorbency rate. Also, contrary to what you may have heard, there is no blanket rule when it comes to sealing natural stone.
Granite is indeed more porous than marble and will stain if not protected with a good-quality impregnator-type stone sealer. Consequently, while it is true that real granites need to be sealed, there are many other stones being sold as granite that are in fact much denser than granite that do not need to be sealed. At the other end of the spectrum, some other “granites” are so porous, that no sealer will do a satisfactory job at sealing them 100% or for a long time. In fact, in some instances, “weird” problems that may appear to be etching on “granite” countertops turns out to be that the residue of sealer left on the surface of the stone (nothing went inside it) was being etched, certainly not the stone. If the surface of the stone did not darken it means that the stone is perfectly sealed.
To illustrate the point, let’s take, for example, a piece of common fabric. Therefore, if we spill some liquid onto it, the material will absorb it. As with the fabric example, when it comes to natural stone there are stains that are in fact stains, and there are “stains” that are actually discolorations that are due to something else. The space in between these molecules of minerals is mostly what determines the porosity of a stone. Some of them are extremely dense, therefore their porosity is minimal. Some other stones present a medium porosity, and others at the very end of the spectrum are extremely porous. A true stain is a discoloration of the stone produced by a staining agent that was actually absorbed by the stone. All those “stains” that look like “water spots” or “water rings” are actually marks of corrosion (etches) created by some chemically active liquid (mostly – but not necessarily limited to – acids) which had a chance to come in contact with the stone. The chemical will attack the stain inside the stone, and the absorbent agent will pull them both out together. As we said before, the chemical must be selected in accordance with the nature of the staining agent.
Cover the poultice with plastic wrap, and tape it down using masking tape. If you decide to use a paper-towel instead of talc powder, make a “pillow” with it (8 or 10 fold thick) a little wider than the stain, soak it with the chemical to a point that’s wet through but not dripping, apply it on the stain and tap it with your gloved fingertips to insure full contact with the surface of the stone.
A scratch is something missing (a groove), and nobody can remove something missing. Same thing with a scratch: you must actually remove whatever is around the groove, down to the depth of the deepest point of the scratch. If the etch is light (the depth is undetectable by the naked eye, and it looks and feels smooth, then a polishing compound for marble will work quite well without requiring the experience of a professional and no specific tools are needed, other than a piece of terry cloth. For example, if some red wine is spilled on an absorbent polished limestone, then the acidity of the wine (acetic acid) will etch (corrode) the surface on contact, while the dark color of the wine will stain the stone by being absorbed by it.