For instance sealing marble kitchen countertops is usually a good idea. On the other hand, some marbles, granites and other stones are naturally dense, stain-resistant and don’t need sealing. This is very helpful in areas like the kitchen, dining room, or high-use floors or countertops in a bathroom. You’d have to leave a leaky bottle of something sitting on the marble tile for it to ever have a chance of staining.

However, in a case where water gets behind the tiles of a sealed shower (from cracks or voids in grout or caulk), it will block evaporation potentially making damage a lot worse. Meaning the tiles and the iron deposits must be exposed to water over an extended period of time or from a continuous source. First, marble is not that absorbent and water would have to be on the surface for quite a long time (maybe 15-30 minutes or more) before it even starts to absorb. Also, since tiles are never really submerged in water in a shower, it is typically absorbed only into the surface (if at all), doesn’t saturate the tile and dries quickly. Floors, benches and shelves are at greater risk for rust stains in white marble showers since water is left standing on these surfaces allowing more time to absorb and potentially oxidize embedded iron deposits. No periodic re-sealing is necessary as is required with all other sealers.

You can spot this problem as the shower tiles will start to turn gray or darker. What happens is the water behind the tile absorbs into the tile and darkens it. Dense, low-absorbency stones (like polished marble) typically do not need sealing and often “cannot” be sealed because the sealer won’t absorb. The result is wasted time, effort and money and a streaky sealer residue on the stone. Better to repair first, but you can always re-apply a sealer to any spots where etch marks were repaired. He may be a steam shower expert but possibly he does not know marble. Well, this myth has been created because people confuse two different issue with marble as if they are the same. People think “etching” is the same as “staining” and conclude that “marble stains easily” and therefore, must be very porous. Water will not readily pass through the marble tile itself into the wood studs and wall creating a mold issue. It would take hours of constant water exposure for the tile to become saturated with water and pass moisture out the back side into the walls.

Sealing Marble Tile | Duration 3 Minutes 36 Seconds

So, it is important that the shower can effectively dry out between uses. White marble has embedded iron deposits that can rust from water exposure causing stains on the marble. But 5 minutes is common and easily managed and improved by applying a sealer.

Use a spray bottle to apply the sealer also trying to create a thin film for the stone to absorb. Of course, you need to let the sealer absorb for 3-5 minutes, but then wipe all excess off and buff dry completely. The tiles cover roughly two feet of wall between the top of the shower and the ceiling as well as the surrounding walls to the floor. The reason is to prevent the grout color from bleeding into the tile creating a dark “picture frame” around the tile edges. It’s just not really necessary in most cases and can potentially lead to a greater problem. He cannot return to inspect for a few weeks, will mold become a problem if we wait this long? Note that we can only speculate at possible problems based on the info we are presented.

However, the difference in the water test between the shower floor and all the other marble is definitely a clue that your installer should consider when trying to figure this out. We ripped up the old shower floor and constructed the new shower with a curbless entry. The installer instructed us to use 511 impregnate sealer on the floor prior to use.

Stunned and saddened as we noticed they didn’t go back to their “normal” dry color. We were instructed by our tile installer to go over that area with two more coats of 511, which we did. The honed marble is dark again, and it doesn’t return to its normal shade. The installer used shouter water proofing system and white thinset. With a new install you shouldn’t have cracks in the grout but there may be a problem with the plumbing, shower pan, or drain that is causing water to accumulate under the tiles. If water was absorbing from the surface you’d see that within 30 minutes of use. Spill some water on the bathroom floor outside the shower and see what happens.

Try the same (let a puddle of water absorb) inside the shower for comparison. And don’t let any water down the drain as this may be the point where water is getting under the tile. After reading tons of articles about to seal or not to seal marble, this article explains best about what to do. Only really necessary if you are using a dark grout that could bleed into the stone and cause some darkening of the edges. Black granite is the only one with any real issues as it can sometimes be “doctored” or dyed to make more black.

Carrara white marble tile on the walls to the top of my tub and ceiling.

Sealing is done to prevent substances that could stain from absorbing into the stone or grout. Of course, if just a tub surround and the there is no shower so the walls will not be exposed to water much, then your risk of rust staining is much less. To remove sealer haze, you’ll need to scrub with acetone, which won’t harm the marble. I am on vacation now, so letting the marble dry out for about 10 days.

I can’t do the water drop test, though, because the stone is only on vertical surfaces. Make sure it’s always in good shape and shouldn’t have problems in the future. Not the entire floor though, just the area where the water hit directly, both on the floor and the wall. I haven’t even started using the shower or bathroom since it is still being renovated. This can happen with an improper installation, or more commonly, when there are cracks or voids in the grout. It will simply keep water from absorbing to prevent oxidation of the iron deposits within white marble. However, it should not take days for the water to evaporate and the spot to disappear. Or it could be that the shower / bathroom does not have sufficient ventilation / air flow to promote evaporation. It isn’t a high-risk area for stains and is generally unnecessary, but won’t cause any problems unless water gets behind the tiles. Unfortunately, our shower is beyond the prevention stage, and has been exposed to water for over a year, and has turned orange-the grout being much worse than the stone.

I do not know how to proceed with preparing this area before moving on to the sealing. However, as you stated the marble has turned orange it may not be worth saving. Water is likely trapped under the tiles and this needs time to evaporate. We unknowingly used some cleaners that produced a few etch marks before reading up on the proper care of marble. That is assuming the installation was done well, grout is all tight with no cracks or voids that could have allowed water to get under the tiles. So, expecting a sealer to protect against this is like expecting car wax to prevent a scratch in the paint from a key or some other hard object.

This product is specially formulated for use on marble, travertine and all natural stone without any damage or etching.

You should be sealing inside the screw hole, but this won’t completely stop a rust stain from developing. If the water sits long enough the marble will absorb it even when sealed.

Rust stains from embedded iron deposits are basically permanent, so you want to do everything possible to avoid them.

My only point is that the grout will be porous no matter what the tile is. When water does cause damage it is nearly always because of cracks, voids or faults in the grout (or from poorly installed tile / grout) allowing a much higher volume of water to enter and get behind the tile. And when the tile and grout have been sealed the evaporation of water behind the tiles is slowed even more. The bench you may want to seal only because water and other products left over from showering or from leaky bottles set on the bench, etc., could cause a stain. Try cleaning with acetone in a small area and see if it clears it up. I read your blog about white tile needing sealing but saw no mention of double sealing. The real reason you might want to seal marble shower tiles prior to grouting is if the grout is a darker color than the marble. Such stains run through the full thickness of the tile, so it will be permanent. And yes, you do want to apply a sealer to white marble in the shower. Such stones typically don’t need sealing since they are already naturally stain resistant.

When a stone is already dense with low-porosity a sealer does not need to be applied. For nearly all other stone the water itself is not a problem and usually sealing a shower is unnecessary. For this reason, white marble tile showers should be sealed to prevent water absorbing and possible rust stain. Certainly in the marble shower, but possibly the floor, vanity top, etc.

How, When And Why You Should Seal Your Marble Or Stone Tile. | Duration 5 Minutes 13 Seconds

and the granite counter tops are a dark gold, brown & black, so, nothing to do there! Darker colors often do not need a granite sealer, however, the only accurate way to know if your specific countertop slab should be sealed or not is to perform the water test for sealing granite. After doing the lemon and oil test it seems i have a very hard polished marble that is not porus and does not have to be sealed like most other sights tell a person that they should.

Some claim it’s a must do while others say sealing showers doesn’t really serve much purpose and may cause a problem in some cases. It depends on the stone, the location and intended use of the stone installation. Applying a sealer is done to reduce the risk of stains in marble or stone. The risk of staining in marble showers is near zero unless you regularly toss a salad or drink some wine in there!

Some people mistakenly believe that the reason to seal shower tile is to prevent the shower water from absorbing. A little water may absorb into the marble or travertine tile while showering, but it quickly evaporates and does not cause any problems.

You don’t gain any real benefit by applying a sealer since your stain risk in a marble shower is minimal. In truth, the sealer itself won’t “cause” a problem out of nothing, so don’t worry if you’ve already sealed your marble shower. This is most often a problem on floors after a flood or from a plumbing leak. In a shower, this could sometimes occur from water behind the tiles and not simply from water absorbed while showering. Honed marble tile will absorb a bit more readily, but shiny polished marble tile has a very low rate of absorption and water may not absorb at all. Thus, any iron deposits within the tiles (unless near the surface) are not exposed to water long enough to oxidize or rust and stains rarely occur. Or applying a standard quality impregnating sealer will work too but you just have to reapply it periodically.

Senguard forms permanent bonds with the stone which means you only have to seal the marble one time.

Usually, the floor tiles are most affected but you may notice the wall tiles that touch the floor become darker as well. This occurs as the water from the floor rises up inside the wall tile. Obviously, it would be absolutely useless to attempt to apply a sealer to a stone that can’t absorb it and doesn’t need a sealer. Waiting 2-3 weeks after shower installation is necessary before applying a sealer to allow the stone, grout and all installation materials to dry out completely or you’ll trap water in the stone.

Honing Etched Marble & Sealing By Granite Shield | Duration 5 Minutes 39 Seconds

No need to polish marble prior to sealing unless you are repairing etch marks. Instead of tearing out all the marble installed we are considering aborting the steam component all together. Marble “etches” easily which is a chemical burn from acids and many cleaners. Yes, it is porous and can stain, but not to the extreme everyone thinks. This is usually how mold issues begin in showers with or without steam. Now, if the steam shower was constantly used, then it is possible the marble tile could become saturated.

You should apply a quality sealer to white marble in the shower to prevent rust stains. Sealing the grout will help but it’s cracks and voids in grout that usually are responsible. Color, pattern, and integrity of that particular marble (or granite or any natural stone) is what determines quality. And it’s probably honed marble which is more absorbent than a polished finish. What would be the best method to apply the sealer on both areas?

Again, steam just wears more on the stone if it is heavily used and may require more frequent sealing. But if you cannot let the shower dry out before sealing, then yes consider not sealing it or seal all tiles prior to grouting. I did the water test you suggested and it’s fine everywhere else in the bathroom except the shower area where it gets absorbed. The installation may be fine and something else is at work. We applied two coats on the shower floor area and one on the remaining floors which is also the same material.

A day later the shower floor was four shades darker than the floors around it. We stopped using the shower and waited two weeks for it to return to its normal state. We used the shower for the first time again yesterday, and nothing has changed. We don’t know what to do except believe this is the nature of the stone? However, marble really isn’t that porous to begin with and if it was properly sealed no water should be absorbing. The key seems that there was some delay in the stone darkening after use. If it took until the next day to see it darken, then it is likely water is absorbing through the tile from underneath. My guess is that it will take forever to absorb and darken (if it does at all). But the shower floor must be completely dry and back to normal color first. Time how long it takes to darken the stone in both locations and note any differences to give you clues to the nature and source of the problem.

It is a white marble and many white marbles do have iron deposits embedded and can, therefore, develop rust stains if water absorbs and oxidizes the iron. This is the reason to apply a sealer to white marble in showers or around tubs where the marble will be regularly exposed to water.

Both can look similar (chalky, dull) but grout haze will usually have a slight texture. Also, use this cleaner as your regular shower cleaner to eliminate film buildup that occurs in every shower. The rust stains can happen with repeated cycles of slight water absorption into the face of the tile. Showers don’t typically require sealing, except white marble for exactly this reason. The sealer will not prevent you from removing any future stains. The primary factor post-sealing would be the integrity of the grout.

Now whenever we take a shower in it, the area where the water hit stays and looks wet and darker. I already have noticed the marble turning dark gray just from them getting water on the tile from a sponge or spilling water from a bucket.

Applying a sealer to shower tiles is only a problem when water is getting behind the tiles. When the shower tiles and grout are in good condition the sealer will not cause any problems. The iron deposit problem is not an issue with any other marble or natural stone color. It is a white marble (with grayish tones and blue / gray veining). Of course, if you like you can apply a sealer to your marble shower tile. Water getting behind the tiles will only occur when there are cracks or broken grout lines. So, if your shower is in good condition, the sealer won’t cause any issue. A larger concern is the grout connecting the floor and the wall has pulled away from the wall, and water continues to get behind it. When the tile gets saturated these iron deposits oxidize and the rusty water moves to the surface and evaporates leaving the orange rust stain. But if you want to go with repairing this one, then you need to stop using it for a week or two to let it dry out completely.

Wait another 2 – 3 weeks to allow the grout to dry and any remaining moisture to evaporate and then apply a good sealer. The shower went unused for a good 3-4 weeks from install before we started using it. Our tile guy said we could use any kind of cleaner, bad advice. Most likely everything is fine, but just letting you know the variables. And it is super-effective cleaning the films that are the biggest problem in showers. I know stainless steel is not supposed to rust (in theory) but it still does under certain conditions. Sealers dramatically slow down absorption, but don’t completely prevent it. I think the key here is that all parts used to install the door must be 100% stainless steel (not just plated), but then if possible, caulk around the screw hole to prevent water collecting and remaining around the screw. However, it is not a sponge and the amount actually absorbed (especially on a wall) is minimal, at the surface only, and will evaporate before it does any real damage. And this repeated process can go on for years and years without any issue, damage or staining.

Certainly, you’d have a mold / mildew issue but could also get staining and other damage to the tile and grout from the constant water exposure.

It says polished marble does not absorb much so sealing in the shower is not necessary. White marble is the exception since it can contain iron deposits that can cause rust stains with repeated exposure to water. It is true that polished marble can be nearly non-absorbent so the risk of rust stains on a polished (vs. Just be sure to apply the sealer correctly and do not allow it to dry, wipe off all excess after absorbing and then wipe the marble completely dry and buff out any streaks.

The amount of water absorbed during a shower is minimal and will quickly evaporate. Still not too big a risk on the bench, but probably the most likely place in your shower (along with shelves) to get a stain and easy to seal it. It may be that the sealer did not absorb well and/or residue dried on the surface. If so, the moisture and dye / color from the grout can absorb into the marble tiles creating a stain all around the edges which looks like a picture frame. However, if you are using a light-colored grout basically the same color as the tile, then you shouldn’t have any problems of this sort and can wait to apply a sealer to the entire finished shower.

However, white marble contains iron deposits that can cause rust stains with repeated water exposure, so white marble shower tile is the one exception where you do want to apply a sealer. Polished marble often is very slow to absorb, and thus, at very low risk for staining. If testing shows absorption in less than 10 minutes on you floor and vanity, then it may be a good idea to seal it to guard against stains. However, with white marble you have possible iron deposits in the marble that can rust if exposed to water causing rust stains on your marble shower tile. Oxidation can occur with repeated cycles of water absorption and evaporation. I suggest applying a sealer to all surfaces that will be regularly exposed to water.

How To Care For Carrara Marble by

Rinse the stone with clean water and then thoroughly dry it with soft cloth. Sealant prevents the naturally porous stone from absorbing spills and moisture, prolonging its beauty and its life. Hire a professional stone worker to repair any deep etching or cracks in the marble. Do not attempt to repair deep cracks or etching on your own; working with marble, especially one of this quality, is an art, and damage is too easily done if you’re not experienced.

Apply the product with a clean cloth until the stain lifts and then rinse the cleaner away with water before drying the stone. Get rid of water spot buildup or rings by lightly buffing the stone with steel wool, ensuring you don’t buff any more than necessary to remove the spot. You can remove oil based stains with detergent, preferably a dishwashing detergent with grease fighting ingredients.

You can use a cleaner specifically meant for marble or store-bought detergent. Do this several times a week or as needed to keep your stone clean and fresh.

To choose the best sealant for your stone, talk to the dealer you purchased the marble from for product recommendations and then apply according to the manufacturer directions. Polish the marble as needed to remove mild roughness in texture, known as etching, with a marble powder and buffing cloth. Rinse the powder off when you’re done, drying the stone with a clean cloth. A professional can smooth it out by polishing the stone and apply a sealant to make the stone more resistant to etching. Remove food stains with hydrogen peroxide, rinsing the stone clean with water and buffing it with a dry cloth. Kill mold or mildew with diluted ammonia, mixing 1/2 cup with one gallon of water.

With either of these options, always rinse the stone clean with water and buff it dry with a clean cloth.

Here’s A Product Comparison Chart For The Best by

One marble surface finish is more at risk than others for staining. It’s important to note that even with an impregnating sealer, the penetration of some liquids will only be delayed and not prohibited –which is why regular maintenance is so important. Since marble countertops grace many kitchens, the sealer will also be certified-safe for use where food is prepared. One caveat with some higher-quality, higher priced sealers (with warranties over 10-years) is that they need to be applied by an authorized installer for the manufacturer to validate the warranty. Etching or a scratched surface, if left unattended, may require buffing out the scratches as a first step or completely refinishing the top of the marble’s surface. It will take multiple applications to achieve maximum sealing potential. Most impregnating sealers claim not to darken or change the marble color when applied.

Topical spray-on sealers will help in maintaining marble but will not provide the saturation your marble needs from an impregnating sealer for optimum protection. Using harsh surface cleaners will degrade an impregnating sealer and shorten its useful lifespan.

Liquids like water and oil can soak into any marble surface given sufficient time.

It’s when liquids are left unattended they will find their way into the pores and imperfections on the surface. Highly polished marble is a little harder to penetrate than marble with a honed (matt) finish but in either finish, a high-quality impregnating sealer will provide benefit. It should also be non-staining and low odor, heat resistant, acid resistant and adhesion-tested. While sealers will be warranted by the manufacturer, when applied correctly, they will not guarantee protection against any etching or scratching of a marble surface. This usually requires the services of a professional an can be costly to complete — not to mention the inconvenience of not using that surface until work has been completed. They simply slow down the rate at which the stone absorbs liquids or oils. Marble, if not previously sealed, whether polished or honed will soak up sealer like a sponge.

It’s always better to test an area and let the sealer dry thoroughly to validate the claim before using the sealer on your entire surface. An impregnating sealer will not protect against etching from glass rings or water surface stains. Many sealer products with longer warranties — 15 years or above — require application by an certified professional for the warranty to be validated and can be very expensive.

Ultimate Guide To How To Clean Carrara Marble by

However, over time using soapy water can dull the shine of your marble so we do not recommend using a homemade marble cleaner for an extended period of time. After you are finished cleaning the marble surface be sure to check and see if a stain was left behind by the spill. If the spill left behind a light dull mark then is its possible that you may have etched your marble. If you rub your hands over the marble surface you can actually feel the etch mark. This occurs when the spilled liquids or materials penetrate the pours in the marble surface making it almost impossible to remove with a conventional marble cleaner. Be sure to remove any dust or grit because when you scrub your marble these materials can scratch the surface. You can apply a little more pressure to the marble countertop if needed. When you are finished cleaning and there are still stains left on the marble countertop then you may have permanent stains that cannot be removed with ordinary marble cleaner. The marble sealer impregnates the marble’s pours and helps block foreign substances from penetrating the stone as thus becoming a stain. Over time the water will begin to rust the metallic deposits inside the stone and create a yellowish stain inside the stone.

If the spill is an acidic liquid, like wine, then be sure to quickly remove the stain in its entirety, because the acidic substance will quickly etch the surface in a matter of seconds.

You can use a homemade marble cleaner made of a mild detergent and water if you would like. However, the homemade marble cleaner is easy because it can typically be made with supplies that are around the house. If so, the liquid you spilled may have been acidic and actually etched the surface. To remove the etch mark you have to actually re-polish the surface and buff the etch mark out of the marble. For a more robust stain removal method see our marble stain removal article. For more info on marble sealers, check out our guide to marble sealers.

Marble Countertops St Louis MO by

They’ll walk you through all the different marble slabs and finishes we offer to help you find the look you desire. Want to learn more about how our luxury marble countertops can complete your dream home? Mountain white is also a very economical choice for you kitchen or bath countertops. Marble’s timeless beauty makes it the most sought after material for kitchen and bath surfaces.

Marble started as limestone which over millions of years of heat and pressure in the earth’’s crust has metamorphosed into marble as we see it.

The color of marble is determined by the mineral composition when it is formed and the amount of impurities present in the limestone during transformation. Blot spills with a dish or paper towel before rinsing with soap and water. To determine if your marble needs sealing, place a few drops of water on the surface. If the area has darkened it needs to be sealed, if not, than the marble does not need to be sealed. This impregnating of the marble allows you more time to clean up spills before they leave a stain, but it is not a fail safe against all staining or etching. Use trivets under hot pots, cutting boards under knives, coasters under drinks, and placemats under table settings and you can avoid most of the aesthetic damage that occurs commonly. Marble is calcium based so anything acidic will chemically react with the surface and leave a dull spot in the finish, called etching. Experts will tell you that the etching, scratches, and discoloration of marble is called the “patina” and what is attractive about the surface as a countertop. None of this patina will affect the structure or function of the surface, as it is primarily cosmetic.

It’s just a conversation starter and a small reality check that the white marble kitchen in the latest kitchen and bath magazine is a professional photo when the kitchen was new.

Our marble collection is complete with a variety of different colors and finishes for your kitchen, bathroom, bar, or other countertop surface. To assist in producing the most satisfying outcome and buying experience, we have a team of experts on staff to help you with every step of the process. On top of that, they will educate you about the particular stone you that interest you; covering the pros and cons to ensure the marble countertop you choose is the best option for you and your family. It is composed primarily of calcite, which is a crystalline form of calcium carbonate. Marble comes in a wide variety of colors with subtle to very dramatic veining. Most marble will have the characteristic flowing veins throughout, while others are very subtle. All marbles are different and will need sealing at different intervals so it is best to test the surface rather than an arbitrary time interval. Marble sealers do not actually “seal” the surface of the top, but go into the stone and fill the voids in the capillaries. With a little vigilance and small adjustments in habit, you can keep your marble countertops looking beautiful for a lifetime. If you stain your marble countertops, you can use a poultice powder to remove the stain simply or call us and we will be happy to schedule a professional to come remove the stain for you.

Good question, because it is immensely important to understand what to expect so you are not surprised when the lemon juice you spilled dulls the finish on your new countertops you just spent thousands of dollars on. Remember, marble has outlasted entire civilizations that have used it for building some of the most beautiful structures on earth! This is not meant to scare you away from marble or draw conclusions about your countertop preferences based on your household size.

If you must have the look of a white marble kitchen or bath and are not a “marble person” than read this article for the best alternatives for your kitchen countertops.

Installing Sealing Protecting Marble Tile Flooring by

You can reinforce your floorboards with another layer of plywood or a cement backer board panel. Check the layout of the marble tile to avoid having a tiny edge on one end of your floor. To keep a symmetrical look, have the starting tile straddle the centerline. If you are applying mortar over seams in the floorboard, apply mesh tape to the seams to avoid cracking. This will ensure that the finished project has an evenly spaced appearance. The application of a penetrating sealer may require the use of a special cleaner to avoid damaging its protective properties.

It will not affect the surface color and will repel oils and waters from inside the stone.

They come in larger sizes and work well in large areas, such as kitchen/dining room combinations. If needed, move the line away from the center to have equal spaces on both sides. Using this starting point spread the mortar and use a trowel to notch it. After putting each marble tile on the mortar, place a 1/16-inch tile spacer between it and the next tile.

The sealer will need to be reapplied periodically, recommended every 12 months or so. They provide some level of protection but wear out quickly, especially if applied to high traffic floor tile or busy kitchen countertops. The resulting finish has a polished appearance that will change the look of the natural marble and make the surface slippery when wet. This sealer will not affect the look of the stone upon application. Though this type of sealer will last longer than the topical form, they also need to be reapplied based on the manufacturer’s recommendations, usually every six months to a year. This natural stone sealer will bond to the marble stone slab or marble tile at a molecular level.

Bianco Carrara Honed Marble Tile by

With stunning veining that comes from the natural wonders of this earth, marble can make a gorgeous fashion statement throughout your home. Stone tile flooring adds natural beauty and timeless elegance to any room. Each unique tile comes from straight from the earth with its own natural variations. Its durability and easy maintenance make it an addition to therooms that’s both practical and attractive to almost any room, and you’ll have an effortlessly elegant aesthetic.

Carrara marble has a rich white or grayish-blue look that is unparalleled with unique veining that gives the benefit of added artistic flair and the camouflaging of any wear and tear that may occur. Natural stone tile is an easy way to bring the beauty of the outdoors into your home.

My Dirty Secret Or How I Learned To by

A nasty nicotine-yellow stain was licking its way up the marble, starting at the stovetop and stretching all the way to the exhaust hood.

A scratch in the paint here, a leak in the basement, a hot water problem. In which case, feel free to take your bleach pot into the living room next, to deal with that stain on the rug. Adding mineral oil or ammonia to the paste would increase the poultice’s effectiveness at drawing out oil, and also be something cool to brag about at my next family reunion. As the poultice dried, the floury paste sucked all the moisture–in this case, the tiny droplets of oil–from the stone.

The mystery, as my husband pointed out, was: why did this happen in the first place? Just in case, we re-applied sealer–three coats–to the backsplash ourselves.

We have 200 guides on everything from fences to foxgloves. I felt like a character in a caper film who had just been foiled (?) as she casually strolled out of a museum wearing a priceless diamond tiara heisted from a display case. You think a remodel will change your life by turning every part of your house into something new and clean and perfect. The first year of living in a perfect house is actually about learning to accept imperfection without falling into a deep state of despair. The basic idea was to mix an inert white powder–like flour, say, or cornstarch–with water to make a paste. America, people have lovely marble backsplashes above stoves, unsullied by horrible yellow grease stains. We phoned the installer, who said (no surprise) that he was shocked by this problem and had never heard of it before. We plan to mount a 3-inch-high strip of stainless steel flashing against the backsplash to divert future chicken smoke and grease from the marble. We love the mix of textures from the dwarf olive, succulents, and feather grass.

Ultimate Care Guide For Carrara Marble by

Acidic liquids can also cause damage like etching to your marble surface. If you get ink on your marble, it can be removed with water and bleach. Mold and mildew can be killed by mixing water and ammonia together. To clean the marble, you should spray the cleaner on the surface of the stone and wipe it off with a soft cloth or paper towel. A professional stone worker might be able to repair any etching or cracks that your marble has sustained. Trying to fix these problems yourself can lead to further damage to the stone.

Don’t use soap on your marble surface, because it can cause the stone to darken. No matter what stains your marble, it is important that you don’t use any products that contain acid.

Make sure there isn’t anything on the stone when you start to clean it, as moving debris around on the surface could scratch the stone. Sealing the marble keeps moisture out of the naturally porous stone.

Polishing marble also helps remove the roughness on the surface of the stone.

This can be done by polishing the stone and applying a sealant to create a barrier between the stone and anything that could hurt it.


Periodic resealing is a necessary maintenance procedure for crazed glazes in wet areas such as showers. We recommend avoiding the use of cleaners that contain phosphoric acids or glycolic acids that may cause etching and damage to glazes. Never use abrasive cleaners or pads on matte or glossy glass tiles. Re-sealing is required on a routine basis as a part of maintenance. Rinse the surface thoroughly after washing with the soap solution and dry with a soft cloth. In the bath or other wet areas, soap scum can be minimized by using a squeegee after each use. In outdoor pool, patio or hot tub areas, flush with clear water and use mild bleach solution to remove algae or moss. Products containing lemon, vinegar or other acids may dull or etch calcareous stones. Sealing does not make the stone stain proof, rather it makes the stone more stain resistant.

However, applying an impregnating sealer is a common practice. If a sealer is applied in a food preparation area, be sure that it is non-toxic and safe for use. If you don’t know what caused the stain, consider likely staining agents that may have been present. Is it near a plant, a food service area, an area where cosmetics are used? Indoors, clean with 12% hydrogen peroxide (hair bleaching strength) and a few drops of ammonia. On dark colored stones, clean with lacquer thinner or acetone. When the smoke is removed, there may also be some etching (due to carbonic & other acids in smoke). Do not use water to remove the powder; it will only temporarily disappear. Call your professional stone supplier, installer or a restoration specialist for problems that appear too difficult to handle. The liquid cleaner or chemical will draw out the stain into the absorbent material.

Do not use whiting or iron-type clays such as fuller’s earth with acid chemicals. A poultice can also be prepared using white cotton balls, whitepaper towels or gauze pads.

Use a wood or plastic scraper to spread the poultice evenly. Allow the poultice to dry thoroughly, usually about 24 to 48 hours. After about 24 hours, remove the plastic and allow the poultice to dry. If the surface is etched by the chemical, apply polishing powder and buff with burlap or felt buffing pad to restore the surface.

Be aware that acidic materials such as vinegar, and lemon juice can etch some stone surfaces such as some of the softer limestones. Sanded or matte glass must be thoroughly degreased and cleaned with denatured alcohol using a soft lint-free cloth. Sand, dirt and grit are abrasive and can damage natural stone. Be sure that the underside of the mat or rug is a slip resistant surface. Similar to any item cleaned in your home, an excessive concentration of cleaner or soap may leave a film and cause streaks.

Use a clean rag mop on floors and a soft cloth for other surfaces for best results. To remove soap scum, use a non-acidic soap scum remover or a solution of ammonia and water (about 1/2 cup ammonia to a gallon of water). Scouring powders or creams often contain abrasives that may scratch certain stones. In fact, the sealing products used in the stone industry are ‘impregnators” which do not actually seal the stone, but more correctly act as a repellent rather than a sealer. When consulting with your stone supplier, you may find that many stones do not require sealing. When considering sealing, remember that sealing the stone does not make the stone stain proof, it makes it more resistant to staining. Consult with your supplier or sealing manufacturer specific to the type of sealer and frequency of use recommended. Outdoors, with the sources removed, sun and rain action will generally bleach out the stains. Deep-seated, rustystains are extremely difficult to remove and the stone may be permanently stained. Paint strippers can etch the surface of the stone; repolishing may be necessary.

Contact your stone dealer or call a professional stone restorer for refinishing or repolishing etched areas. You may have to do this several times as the stone dries out. If the problem persists, contact your installer to help identify and remove the cause of the moisture. Deeper scratches and nicks in the surface of the stone should be repaired and repolished by a professional. The poultice is spread over the stained area to a thickness of about 1/4 to 1/2 inch with a wood or plastic spatula, covered with plastic and left to work for 24 to 48 hours.

Poultice procedures may have to be repeated to thoroughly remove a stain, but some stains may never be completely removed. Approximately one pound of prepared poultice material will cover one square foot. Apply the poultice to the stained area about1/4 to 1/2 inch thick and extend the poultice beyond the stained area by about one inch. Cover the poultice with plastic and tape the edges to seal it. The drying process is what pulls the stain out of the stone and into the poultice material.

It may take up to five applications for difficult stains.

Marble Care Maintenance 101 by

Here’s what you need to know before the decision’s set in stone. Figuring out the size, color, shape, and finish you need may entail a little more hand-wringing. For instance, if you’re looking to use the natural material on a floor or in a tight space (like a backsplash), tiles may be the ideal option. Honed (matte) marble hides these little imperfections better than polished, a particularly important consideration for kitchen counters. Experts share tips on how to treat it right to ensure it will look its best for many years. Once it’s dry (12 to 24 hours), scrape the paste off and wipe with a damp cloth. I got adhesive tape on my cheese cutting board and after removal can still see where the tape was.

Deciding that marble, with its classic good looks, is right for your home is the easy part. Visit a home center and speak with a specialist, who will walk you through the selection process. Slabs, for their part, look best on large, level surfaces like shower walls and counters.

The material’s porous nature makes it prone to etching and staining. Spread it onto the stain, then cover with plastic wrap sealed with painters’ tape.

Carrara Vs. Calacatta Marble: What’S The Difference? by

It’s often characterized by soft feather grains that homeowners go crazy over.

If you keep up with the maintenance, then it should look great for a long time, rather than dull and fade in a pretty short time. This type of marble seems to suck up most anything that falls on its surface, so you’re going to want to protect your investment by implementing a strict, no excuses cleaning schedule. It’s light yet elegant color helps the kitchen area look more spacious, putting all who eat and cook there at ease. They are both pretty porous, and nobody would classify either of them as low-maintenance. Just be vigilant about stains and always seal (and reseal!) your marble to prevent etching and premature aging.

Its whiteness reflects the purity of the marble, leading to a higher cost for the average consumer. Whether you have marble in your home or another type of stone such as granite, slate, or travertine, natural-stone care needs to be a part of your regular routine.

Make no mistake, as similar as these two natural stones are, there are some key distinctions – find out what they are before buying.

It’s generally bright white with thick, elegant veins that can come in a variety of colors from beige all the way to gold. While it looks incredible, keep in mind that if you also have a marble basin (sink), you’re going to spend a lot of time cleaning and wiping it down – you don’t want to let all the moisture sit there and take hold. For this reason, this type of material is best kept to the countertop, but even that will be water prone in a bathroom, so keep on top of it and your bathroom will look lustrous for years to come. Calacatta marble will lighten up any bathroom with a great backsplash and make all who use it feel like royalty, as long as they do the proper maintenance to safeguard against its porous nature by cleaning regularly and sealing frequently. Take care of your marble by giving it the occasional polish as well as a strong seal, and it should remain pristine for years to come. Things are often dropped in the kitchen, so there’s certainly a possibility that a heavy pan or kitchen tool could chip your precious marble. From classic to contemporary, a good slab of marble can be mixed with any home décor. Calacatta is considered the rarer of the two natural stones, and with that there comes a premium. Of course, these prices are all going to vary depending on the supplier you choose, but think of these prices as a ballpark figure.

How To Clean Carrara Marble: 12 Steps With by

This is because a wide variety of products can damage the marble or transform its appearance. To do this, take a clean microfiber cloth, wet it with warm water, and systematically wipe the marble. The amount of detergent/soap may vary based on the specific product. Make sure to push debris toward one end of the marble and then remove it. You can purchase poultices at a home improvement store in your community. Most all poultices should work to effectively remove stains from your marble. After you’ve applied the poultice, you need to cover it with plastic wrap for one to two days.

The one to two days will give the poultice time to draw out the stain.

After you’ve allowed it to sit for one to two days, use a putty knife or spatula to remove the poultice. Avoid applying poultice to the same spot more than two or three times. Consult a professional if a repeat application of poultice does not remove a stain. Pick a hidden or inconspicuous spot on the marble and do a test clean. In the end, it’s better to perform a test than to ruin your entire marble floor or countertop.

This will give you enough time to see if the product has harmed the marble. While sealing your marble won’t protect it completely from staining, it will decrease the likelihood of some staining. You may need to reseal your marble after three to five years.

In most cases, your daily cleaning won’t require more than a simple wipe down with warm water. Take several cups of warm water and add a couple teaspoons of detergent.

After you’ve made your solution, dampen a clean cloth and wipe down the marble systematically. After you’ve wiped down the marble with your detergent solution, take a wet a clean cloth and wipe down the marble again. Use a plastic or wood putty knife or spatula to spread the poultice over the stained area. The plastic wrap will make sure the poultice doesn’t make a mess or dry out. Use a rag dampened in a warm water and soap/detergent mixture to remove any residual poultice. Reapplying the poultice will very likely lighten or remove the stain that remained after you first applied it. Consider testing poultice or other cleaning products underneath the granite where it overhangs a cabinet. There are a wide variety of household products that could damage your marble simply by making contact. If it is not sealed, it will absorb any liquids that are spilled on it. Dampen the surface of the marble above the stain with pure water, apply the paste over the spill, and cover the paste with plastic wrap.


When measuring more complex shapes it is best to divide them into separate rectangles and then add them together to get a total area. Marble is a non-foliated metamorphic rock, meaning it does not appear to have any layering and has been transformed from another material through heat, pressure and time. Marble has the ability to attain a very high polish, leaving the surface smooth and with a lustrous shine. Sealing is the first important step towards protecting your investment against stains.

Deepshield™ also acts as a salt barrier, making it ideal around saltwater pools or marinas. Deepshield™ sealers will not flake or peel, and do not need to be removed before reapplying in future as with topical and other film forming sealers. Deepshield™ will protect and extend the life of your natural marble tiles. Acid etching on marble is commonly caused by direct contact with liquids like lemon juice, cola, wine, vinegar and champagne. Even when marble is sealed, acidic substances should be cleaned up as soon as possible as it is very difficult to completely seal marble against acid attack. These liquids cause marble to deteriorate prematurely and in doing so reduce its usefulness.

If natural vapour transmission is not allowed to take place, moisture gets trapped and can cause chemical and physical changes within the stone. Deepshield™ is suitable for indoor and outdoor use and is ideal for use around swimming pools and other wet areas. Highly polished surfaces and dense materials such as marble have extremely fine micro pores that require a specific formula to penetrate. Deepshield™ will last longer and work better when the marble is properly cared for. The easiest way to measure strength of the seal is to apply a teaspoon of water to the surface and see if the colour beneath the water darkens after a few minutes. What is the difference between an impregnating sealer and a topical sealer? Surface sealers (topical) usually don’t last long, can make the floors slippery and need to be completely removed the next time sealing is required. Place a tablespoon of water on the treated surface for 20 minutes, remove the water with a tissue or cloth, pressing hard to soak up any water in the texture of the surface. The longevity can vary depending on the type of marble the location and what type of wear the surface is exposed to.

It is not a surface coating and will not crack, peel, yellow or discolour at any time.

Is there a perfect marble sealer that always prevents stains? The sooner any spill can be cleaned up the less likely a stain will result. Clean your tile and grout regularly so dirt and stains don’t have a chance to build up.

Just multiply the length by the width in metres and you have the answer. One distinguishing feature of marble is its slight translucent quality, allowing light to penetrate the surface and create a slightly glowing reflection producing a very appealing effect. Marble is a natural stone and each section will be slightly different to the next, creating a unique personality for each piece. If after a few minutes the water has soaked into the marble, then you will need to seal your stone. Sealing your marble will keep most stains suspended at the surface, creating a barrier that provides protection against chemical attack, deterioration and contamination.

Deepshield™ sealers are fully breathable penetrating impregnating sealers that will allow water vapour to escape freely so the surface can dry out, this helps avoid harmful moisture buildup inside the treated marble material. Deepshield™ is fast curing and can be used indoors and outdoors, with no unpleasant odours or flammability problems. Acid etching can’t be cleaned and can only be removed by honing or grinding the surface.

The milder the acid, the longer it takes to etch the stone, stronger acids can cause dramatic damage in seconds. Marble, like other calcite based natural stone is prone to acid etching. Deepshield™ will extend the life of your marble tiles and add value as they age beautifully instead of crumbling with erosion. Materials such as marble are made up of countless capillary pores, allowing for the absorption of liquids such as water, water-borne salts and oils. Moisture present in the ground can be wicked or drawn into marble by capillary action. This action of decay in natural stone can take the form of pitting, spalling, flaking and oxidation. Deepshield™ will not affect the slipperiness of your surfaces, and does not cause any yellowing or leave a visible shine. Deepshield™ sealers provide a preventive measure that gives extra protection to marble which still needs to be maintained with stone care products once sealed. In addition, periodic professional maintenance such as cleaning, polishing and repairs are definitely recommended. If the marble darkens, that means that moisture has penetrated, and a fresh coat should be applied.

Topical sealers produce a physical barrier over the marble which also creates a darkening, yellowing or glossy effect. Salts and efflorescence may also build-up under the non-breathable surface, causing the coating to appear cloudy. When sealing a very dense stone such as marble one coat is usually sufficient, depending on the degree of the stones’ porosity. A few of the more absorbent stone varieties may require additional coats to be properly sealed. An easy way to find out if your marble tiles are sealed is to carry out a water test. If the water is absorbed or leaves a dark mark, the surface needs to be sealed, otherwise, the marble is adequately sealed and does not require further sealing. Deepshield™ will penetrate the marble and bond to the pore structure. Why is it necessary to carry out a test trial with the sealer before doing the full job? Unless you have applied the sealer to the exact same marble surface with the same conditions before, it is vital to conduct a small trial to ensure you get the result you are after. Acidic spills such as juice, soft drinks or wine can actually etch and dull stone if not wiped up promptly.


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